Many horses that have started at Calcutta would make no contemptible figure even at Newmarket: according to the distance, and the time in which the course has been run over, I have reason to believe, that a few, which could be mentioned, might competite with the best of the second class of British racers. Taking into consideration, that such are entirely the result of chance purchases, and not from any care in breeding, it may be fairly argued that the horses of India, by which I mean those brought from Candahar, Lahore, the Maharrattah states, &c., possess considerable speed. Many, indeed, of that small indigenous breed, which is usually held in contempt, especially on the turf, have displayed very great powers, and distanced horses not only of considerable value, but of high reputation. The race-grounds in other parts of the country are not better preserved than that at the Presidency; however, there is ample room for toleration, both because there are few horses kept for running; the races, in those quarters, being merely desultory, and the course generally marked out, pro tempore, from some uncultivated spot; which, having a tolerable surface, may answer the purpose of amusement for two or three days at Christmas.
Though there are tattoo (i.e. poney) races, at Calcutta, few of that class are brought forward, except after very full proof of their qualifications; in fact, the poney-races are often superior to those run by the best cattle on the clerk’s register. At the out-stations, matches, or sweepstakes, are made solely with the view to merriment, or from whim, frolic, or periodical elevation after a hearty regale. Here we see cause for mirth, and, not unfrequently, find a clumsy-looking beast, with heavy heels, and a head like a yam, taking the lead of ‘trim-built wherries,’ that seem to challenge competition. I recollect a curious instance of this: a very shabby, heavy-looking tattoo, belonging to Captain Cæsar Jones, started in this adventitious manner, and, to the surprize of all, fairly distanced several celebrated steeds. He was sent to Calcutta, where his uncouth appearance caused him to be ridiculed, but there was no standing against his speed and bottom. Hence, he acquired the name of ‘Take-in;’ a designation which the knowing ones feelingly acknowledged to be highly appropriate! The spirit for betting at races does not run very high in India; though there have existed some characters who devoted their whole attention to this species of gambling: but so little encouragement offers for speculations on the turf, that, with the exception of a few fat pigeons, it may be said no money has been made by racing: the wagers rarely exceed a few gold-mohurs. Every horse becoming so thoroughly known to all the sporting community, little opening is left for deception or contrivance. The smallest indication of collusion would, in that quarter, prove instantly fatal to reputation, and cause at least a shyness, if not an absolute estrangement, on the part of society, towards the offending individual. In Europe this would not be so much felt, because a man may change his quarters, and, for a long time, screen himself from public, or general disapprobation; but, in India, when an individual is cut at one station, he will rarely experience common civility at any other; his character generally preceding him by many a day’s journey!
Gambling was formerly one of the most prominent vices to be seen in Calcutta; but of late years has considerably diminished. Those who recollect the institution of Selby’s Club, and who now contemplate the very small portion of time dissipated, even by the younger classes, at cards, &c., by way of ‘profit and loss,’ cannot but approve the salutary reform introduced by Marquis Cornwallis, who, whatever may have been his foibles, his prejudices, and his errors, in other matters, certainly was entitled to the approbation of the Company, as well as to the gratitude of their servants, for having checked so effectually a certain licentious spirit, which had, till his arrival, been totally uncontrolled, indeed, unnoticed, in any shape, by his predecessors.
To expect that any Governor should be able totally to annihilate every bad practice, would be to consider him as vested with supernatural powers; but, it is assuredly within the reach of every person bearing that high office, to chace the abandoned into their secret recesses, and to render them at least timid, if not innocent. By removing such characters from office, and by persevering in resolution not to give employments of emolument to any but the most assiduous, and correct, of the Company’s servants, much may be, much has been, done. Common sense points out the impropriety of allowing a gambler to occupy any office in which either great trust, or particular application, and vigilance, might be requisite; therefore, as the generality of the posts held under the Company are of either one or other of those descriptions, or may perhaps blend both, it stands to reason that a man whose brains are ever casting the dice, and whose carriage rolls upon the four aces, never can with safety be trusted.
Those who are partial to cards, as an amusement, may find abundance of parties during the evenings, where, for the most part, tradrille and whist (the favorite games) are played at such low stakes as not to be productive of regret, or inconvenience. Quadrille is barely known in India, nor are what we term ‘round-games’ much in use: cribbage is played in some families, and, occasionally, loo. In all the above games, the European inhabitants of Calcutta, as well as those dispersed over the country, are generally proficient; far more so than we find persons of the same description among us: a large portion are well acquainted with chess, and back-gammon; and many excellent players at fives, billiards, &c., are to be found in every quarter. Cricket is not much in vogue; being confined principally to a club at Calcutta, and to some occasional Christmas matches at the several army stations. On the whole, though far less violent, as an exercise, than fives, it is less adapted to the climate; the alternate successions of exertion, and of inactivity, rendering the players liable to severe colds, and to consequent obstructions.
Music, it might be thought, would prove a great source of gratification in a country where ennui is so much to be dreaded; but the climate is unfavorable to instruments of every kind, especially to pianos, and offers a most formidable bar to the indulgence of a musical ear. No persons can be more liberal in their purchases of instruments, or of select music, than the ladies of India; they often giving two hundred pounds for a good grand-piano; but the incessant apprehension of warps, and cracks, is a tremendous draw-back on the interest they feel in the possession of even the best of its kind. Repairs, of every sort, whether of violins, pianos, flutes, &c., are exorbitantly dear, and, even at Calcutta, not always practicable; either owing to dissipation, the want of some essential article, or the quantity of work in hand. Nor is it easy to obtain the temporary accommodation of an instrument while one is repairing, unless at such a rate as utterly precludes all of moderate income from availing themselves of such an opportunity, when it may chance to offer.
With respect to what is called ‘preparing an instrument for the climate,’ much may certainly be done, by taking care that only the best seasoned wood is employed, and by clamping the case with metal, both within and without; but all this has little connection with the belly, or sounding-board; which cannot be much strengthened without considerably deteriorating the tone, and causing a piano to be in the first instance condemned, for want of that richness which cannot be given to one whose vibrations are obstructed. The only chance is, to keep a piano well covered with blankets during the heats, as also in very damp weather, and to uncloathe it gradually, when about to be opened for performance. By such precautions, the instrument may remain tolerably in tune, and not sustain much injury from the variations of seasons: after two or three years the danger may be less; but it will be prudent never to relax in point of prevention, lest the instrument should suddenly fail.
With the exception of such little parties as, in a few families, assemble during the afternoons to enjoy the pleasures arising from the musical talents of some lady, Calcutta has little to offer in this captivating branch of amusement. If we cast out of the account some accidental quartetto parties, or the solitary warblings of some flute-player, &c., the whole may be deemed a blank. Now and then a subscription concert, for the benefit of some professor, who lives more by means of eleemosynary bounty, than by the encouragement of his abilities, calls the town together, not to listen to the notes, to the fine melodies, and rich harmonies of Haydn, &c., but to see, and to be seen, and to talk, and be talked to. In brief, India is not the soil to which a man of science, or of taste, should repair, under the hope of being liberally repaid for his trouble and expences; much less of being cherished for his genius and acquirements. One or two insulated exceptions are not to be adduced in refutation of my assertion: I am ready to acknowledge, that, now and then, a professor has been seen pampering under all the influence of high and boundless patronage; but the per contra shews a numerous list of those who have lingered through all the penalties attendant upon humble merit, until the grave has kindly terminated their ill-fated labors.
Assemblies, balls, routs, &c., or under whatever name dissipation, vanity, and luxury, may arrange their concordance, are not very numerous in India. The Governor-General, and the Members of Council, occasionally circulate their invitations during the cold months; and, at times, some spacious public rooms are engaged for the same purpose on speculation; but I never understood that it proved lucrative.
It was not until about twenty years back that the British had any regular church in Bengal, and now they have but one, which was built partly by private aid, and partly by the profits arising—from a lottery!!! The latter was, I understand, very forcibly opposed by one or two gentlemen, who considered it as a very unbecoming mode of raising supplies for so holy a purpose. When we reflect that a Portugueze merchant built one, for the use of the Catholics, from his own purse; and that, though he was accounted a rich man, yet his property could not be compared with what various individuals, of our own nation, resident in India, can boast; it may be fairly quoted, as a singular instance of parsimony against our countrymen. Not that impiety or disrespect to public worship can be urged against the settlement; for no church can be better attended than that in question: the liberality of the inhabitants was partially exemplified by the institution of a free-school, where a number of children, both of Europeans, and of native mothers, are educated in a very sufficient manner; a circumstance of considerable moment where education is so dear.