There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common.
Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation after eating; inactivity for long periods of time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin, are all signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when it sheds (you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the snake has grown), when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates. The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake.
The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites: both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after eating, then there is reason to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the proper medicine. Most worming medications are in liquid form, and they can be squirted down the snake’s throat, or injected into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected of having parasites, or any new snake in your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian.
External parasites are of two types: mites and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by pulling them off with a pair of forceps. Try to get all of the tick out from under the skin.
Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection, they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they had all been eradicated. Mites appear as little tiny black specks which are most often seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes. They are often seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control is very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective in controlling mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage and all decorations in it. The strip will have killed all the adult mites, but not the eggs. It is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning procedure. The No-Pest strip will also help to control ticks and flies.
Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages, others use store bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages, with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium, in order to give the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden snake cage.
The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snakes spend so much time coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch, that the large snake cage is of little value. A cage the size of a 10-gallon aquarium will be large enough for all but the large pythons or boas (over 5 feet). Remember to keep the snake’s native habitat in mind if you are going to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not be kept wet or even damp. Even water snakes need only a dish of water for drinking.
What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly kept as “pets”:
Rat Snakes (genus Elaphe), rodent eaters from eastern and southern U.S., average size up to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first caught, but usually tame down. The red rat snake (Elaphe g. guttata) is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes.
King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus Lampropeltis), usually eat small rodents, lizards, and small snakes. Disposition, same as rat snakes.