WANDERINGS
IN
NORTH AFRICA.
BY
JAMES HAMILTON.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1856.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WOODFALL AND KINDER,
ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET.
CONTENTS.
| PAGE | |
| Introduction | [ix] |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Malta to Benghazi. — Benghazi. — Aspect ofthe Town. — Population. — Diseases. — Government. — Antiquities. —Dress of the Inhabitants. — Trade. — Artisans. — Jews | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Preparations for Departure from Benghazi. —Leave Benghazi. — Arab Horses. — Ruins of Kasa Tawileh. — Labiar. —What an Arab is. — Mode of Travelling. — Retinue. — Silphium. —Tombs. — Cyrene | [18] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Grennah. — Arab Conversation. — Fountain ofCyre. — Ruins of Cyrene. — Interrupted by Bedawin. — Ruins of aTheatre. — Bas-reliefs. — Inscriptions. — Terraces. — Temple ofÆsculapius. — Aqueduct. — Cyrene’s History unknown. — Its Ruinousstate | [33] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Interview with the Bey. — Arab Feast. — TheBey’s Hospitality | [55] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Meditations at Sunrise. — Violation of theTombs. — Description of the Tombs. — Allegorical Figures. —Splendid Tomb. — Curious Tombs. — Lively Vale. — UnartisticStatues | [62] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Charming Scenery. — Arab Summer Dwellings. —Ruins of Apollonia. — Ancient Granaries. — Chapels over Saints’Tombs. — Abd-el-Kader’s Warriors. — Temple of Bacchus | [78] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Grennah, a Charming Retreat. — PleasantCamping-ground. — Rencontre with an Arab Saint. — The Son of a RichPrince. — Striking Cures | [92] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| An Arab “Vendetta.” — Coquetry at the Wells.— A Bridal Procession. — The Okbah Pass | [103] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Improvidence of the Arabs. — Derna, itslively appearance. — Ruined Battery. — Curious Bargain | [113] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Convent Agriculture. — A Roman Stronghold. —Splendid Olive Groves. — Water runs short. — The Mirage. — Dinewith the Governor. — The Site of Ancient Barca. — Quit the Plain ofMerdj | [122] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Tomb of a Ptolemy. — Unequal Taxation. — Whata Wife costs. — Ruins of Tolmeta. — Wall around Tancra. — GoodState of the Ruins. — The Rains. — Arab Tents. — Return toBenghazi | [138] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| What a Consul should be. — TurkishOppression. — Official Corruption. — Universal Venality. — TheMoslem hates the Christian | [154] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Benghazi to Augila. — Corn Stores. —Cachettes. — Ruins near El-Farsy. — Remarkable Fortress. — Horrorsof the Slave Trade. — England should forbid it. — Herds ofGazelles. — Bruce. — Rĕsam. — Oasis of Augila | [165] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Augila and Jalo. — Group of Oases. — TheMajabra Arabs. — The Sultan of Waday. — Turkish Drunkards. —Inconveniences of Travel | [187] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The rival Sheikhs. — Weary Days at Augila. —Chain of Oases. — Marriage Feasts. — Marriage Gifts | [204] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Vexatious Delay. — Lose the Track. — Shortcommons in the Desert. — Genuine Arab Hospitality. — En route forSiwah. — Sand Valleys. — Scene of Desolation. — Signs of VolcanicAction. — Approach Siwah. — Sepulchral Caves. — Arrive atSiwah | [215] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Encampment at Siwah. — Conference with theSheikhs. — Refuse to quit Siwah. — Attack on the Tents. — Detainedat Siwah. — Incidents while imprisoned. — Defensive Preparations. —A South Wind blows Good Luck. — Manners, &c., of the People. —Their Appearance and Dress. — An Industrious Race | [237] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Arab Mesmerism. — Divination. — SheikhSenusi. — Morocco Miracles. — A Treasure-seeker’s Tales. — Yusuf’sIngenuity. — Further exemplified. — My Captivity ended. — TheTables turned | [261] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Antiquities of Agharmy. — Ruins of a Temple.— Ancient Palace. — Acropolis of the Oasis. — Tombs of theAmmonians. — Interior of Siwah. — Ruins of Beled er-Roum. — ManyRuins around Siwah. — Preparations for Departure | [281] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Leave Siwah. — Rude Sepulchres. — A Camel’sLast Stage. — Sand Storm. — Find an Arab Cousin. — Corn hard to getat. — Adieu to the Desert. — The Desert. — The Oasis. — Arrive atCairo | [301] |