Though it has never attained great popularity in New York or in the North, Elvira, soon after its introduction in Missouri about thirty-five years ago, was carried to the very pinnacle of popularity as a wine grape. The qualities which commended it were its great productiveness, in which character it is hardly surpassed in favorable locations by any other of our native grapes; its earliness, ripening in the North with Concord; its exceedingly good health, being almost free from cryptogamic diseases and having almost no touch of black-rot in the average season even in the Southwest; its great vigor as shown by a strong stocky growth and ample foliage; and, lastly, almost perfect hardiness even as far north as Canada. Its good qualities are offset by one or two defects which have caused it to lose in popularity as time has gone by until now it is not as widely grown as some of its seedlings. The most noticeable of its defects is its thin skin which bursts easily, thus wholly debarring it from distant markets. Beside this, its flavor and appearance, as it grows here, are not sufficiently good to make it a table grape and it can be used only for wine for which purpose it is much valued, though its habit of cracking in the bunch is sometimes much against it as a wine grape. The wine made from Elvira is light, containing comparatively little alcohol, and by those wine-makers who do not dislike a slight foxiness in flavor, it is considered very good, improving with age and being well adapted for blending with more highly flavored wines.
At the beginning of the reconstruction period in France, Elvira was used more or less as a resistant stock and somewhat as a direct producer but within a few years it was condemned and abandoned for either purpose and is now known in France[187] only in varietal vineyards.
Elvira is a seedling of Taylor, a Riparia-Labrusca hybrid, and shows well the peculiarities and general characters of the group of which Taylor is supposed to be the parent. Of the numerous hybrid Riparia grapes, Elvira seems to have given the best coign of vantage for breeding work and is the parent of a number of worthy pure-bred and cross-bred varieties. While it is to the species to which Elvira belongs that we must look for our hardiest grapes, this variety and most of its progeny are not suited to northern conditions, not because of tenderness to cold, but because they must have a long season for maturity and to attain their best quality. Riparia is largely used as a resistant stock in combating phylloxera, and Elvira and other similar hybrid offspring are almost proof against this pest.
Elvira was originated by Jacob Rommel of Morrison, Missouri, from seed of Taylor which some say was pollinated by Martha. It was planted in 1863 and fruited for the first time in 1869. Bush & Son & Meissner introduced the variety in 1874. It was placed on the grape list of the American Pomological Society fruit catalog in 1881 where it is still retained. Its great popularity in Missouri was largely due to the energy with which it was advertised by certain prominent viticulturists, they having been most favorably impressed with it because of its withstanding the severe cold of the winter of 1873 without protection. Husmann, in particular, spoke of Elvira in the highest terms and recommended its cultivation. Its popularity spread from Missouri to the islands and the Ohio shore of Lake Erie but scarcely reached New York. In all of these regions its culture is now on the wane.
Vine vigorous, hardy, healthy, produces very heavy crops, more productive than Concord. Canes of average length, numerous, medium to below in thickness, rather dark brown, deepening in color at the enlarged and flattened nodes; internodes short to medium; diaphragm rather thin; pith intermediate in thickness; shoots slightly pubescent; tendrils continuous, of average length, trifid to bifid.
Leaf-buds nearly medium in size, short to medium in length, thick, conical to nearly obtuse, open in mid-season. Young leaves tinged faintly with carmine on the lower side only. Leaves rather large, medium to somewhat thin; upper surface light green, older leaves dull but younger leaves glossy, smooth to medium; lower surface pale green, slightly pubescent, hairy. Veins rather distinct; lobes none to three with terminus acute to acuminate; petiolar sinus deep to medium, inclined to narrow, sometimes closed and overlapping; basal sinus usually lacking; lateral sinus shallow, often notched; teeth medium to rather deep, somewhat wide. Flowers fertile or nearly so, open moderately early; stamens upright.