(b) Mites go onto the birds only long enough to feed—usually about ½ hour.
(c) Red mites suck blood from the pigeons. It is the engorged blood that makes the mite red.
(d) Mite eggs are deposited in the cracks and crevices or debris around the nest box where they live.
(e) Eggs hatch in 2 or more days, according to weather conditions.
(f) Newly-hatched mites mature in about 5 days.
(2) Diagnosis. Pigeon’s loss of condition is the most evident indication of mite infestation. Actual loss of blood is probably less harmful to the bird than annoyance caused by crawling and biting of mites.
(3) Treatment. Most good disinfectants supplied to lofts will kill mites satisfactorily if worked well into all cracks and crevices. Oily disinfectants are inexpensive and very effective, but leave the loft rather unsightly. Whitewash kills only by covering up and is ineffective if any areas are missed. For this reason, some of the more refined cresols are used. Four percent saponified cresol in warm water is quite effective.
(4) Repeat. Since the cresol does not kill the eggs, it is necessary to repeat treatment in 5 to 7 days.
(5) Prevention. Mites that attack pigeons are apparently the same as found on other birds, including domestic poultry. Therefore, wild birds, straggling pigeons, and neighborhood poultry are possible sources of infection. Light, dry, airy lofts do not favor breeding of mites.
c. Pigeon flies which are particularly troublesome in warm climates are true flies with short, flat, wide bodies and long wings.