50. To varnish maps and pictures.—Take a piece of linen, or cotton cambric, rather larger than the map or picture to be varnished, and draw it straight upon a frame of convenient size, and confine it at the edges by small tacks or nails. Lay a thin coat of fine rye flour paste on this, and on the back of the paper that is to be varnished; lay the paper on the cambric and press them together till the paper adheres firmly in every part. When this is dry, give the face of the print two or three coats of a strong solution of gum-arabic in water, allowing each sufficient time to become perfectly dry. This sizing must be applied with a large smooth brush, and must be spread over the work very quickly, and with as little brushing as possible. Afterwards, give the work one or more coats of the varnish described at 48. Note.—Very small prints may not require to be pasted on cambric; and if the paper be very thick, the varnish may be applied without the previous sizing. Ising-glass, (which may be readily dissolved in boiling water) is sometimes added to the gum-arabic, and increases the strength of the sizing, but is somewhat less transparent than pure gum-arabic. A more simple method of varnishing prints, is to size them with a solution of loaf sugar, and finish with a solution of rosin in spirits of turpentine.
51. To make brunswick blacking for picture glasses.—Take one pound of gum-asphaltum and melt it over a slow fire; then take it from the fire and add spirits of turpentine in small quantities, stirring it briskly till it is of the consistence of varnish. As there is some danger of its taking fire when the spirits of turpentine is added, it may be well to be provided with a piece of wet flannel, to throw over it if that should happen. When it is nearly cold, strain it through a flannel, and bottle it for use. This blacking is used for bordering picture glasses, and is probably the most perfect black in nature. It is water proof and dries very quick.
52. To make a print appear on a gold ground.—Dilute venice turpentine with spirits of turpentine till it works freely with a camel-hair pencil; lay a coat of this varnish on any part of a print or picture, observing to keep the pencil within the lines, that the varnish may not spread beyond. Then lay a coat of the varnish on the same part of the back of the paper and lay on a leaf of gold over the varnished part; press down the gold very gently with cotton, and the varnish having rendered the paper transparent, the face of the picture will appear as if those parts were printed in gold. By this varnish (which is less liable to spread in the paper than oil) pictures may be so prepared, that the colours of various parts of them, may be varied and changed at pleasure, by placing pieces of silk or paper of different colours on the back of them.
53. Best method of tracing or copying a picture.—Perhaps the most simple method of copying the outlines of a picture, is to place the picture against a window, with the paper over it, on which the copy is to be drawn; the principal lines of the picture will be seen through the other paper, and may readily be traced with a lead pencil. But the usual manner of copying, in landscape painting, and which will answer for pictures of any size, is to rub over the back of the picture with plumbago, or red ochre; then lay the picture on the ground that is to receive the copy, and trace the lines with a smooth pointed steel, or piece of hard wood. The ground will thus be very accurately and distinctly marked, by the plumbago or ochre adhering to the ground in the lines that are traced. When several copies are to be taken from the same pattern, (which frequently occurs in ornamental painting,) the outlines of the first copy may be perforated with some pointed instrument, so that being laid on the other grounds that are to receive the copies, and brushed over with a little fine dry whiting, or red ochre, (as the case may require) the whiting or ochre will penetrate the perforated lines of the pattern, and thus mark the ground on which it is laid.
54. The construction and use of a copying machine.—Take two strips of wood, which may be about three feet long, one inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick; lay them on a table, parallel to each other, and eighteen inches apart. Across these, lay three other strips, which must be eighteen inches long, that each end of each piece may rest on one of the longer strips. Two of these must lie across the opposite ends of the longer pieces, and the other across the centre, thus forming two squares. Drive a pin through the ends of the short pieces, or confine them by rivets to the others, but not so as to prevent their playing circularly on the rivets. Then drive a pin or pivot through the centre of the middle cross-bar into the table, or board on which the work lies. In one end of one of the long strips (which may project a little over the cross-bar) fix a lead pencil, with the point downward, so that it may bear lightly on the board; and under this pencil, place the paper that is to receive the copy. And in the opposite end of the other piece, fix a smooth iron point, in a manner similar to that of the pencil, and under this point place the picture that is to be copied. Then with the iron point, carefully trace the lines of the picture, and the pencil in the opposite corner will move in a transverse direction, and draw the same picture very accurately on the other paper. If you fix the pencil half way between its former place and the middle cross-bar, and remove the pivot to a point that is directly in a line with the pencil and the iron point, it will give a copy in exact proportion, but only one fourth part as large as the picture that is copied. Thus the copy may be decreased or increased to any size, and still retain its regular proportions. In this manner, painting on wood or canvas may be copied, which could not readily be done in any other way.