It is not, of course, expected that a physician will personally make the examination necessary to determine whether the plumbing of a house is in good order, but he should be able to make it, if necessary, if for no other purpose than to know whether the inspector employed for the purpose understands his business.
The dangers to health from a properly-constructed system of house sewerage, such as is now generally agreed upon by sanitary engineers, are so very small as to practically amount to nothing, being, in fact, less than those of a well-kept yard privy of a country house, setting aside altogether the question of water pollution. The real difficulties in the way are the expense of such a system, which is considerable, and the finding of skilled and honest workmen to construct it and keep it in repair. Not every one who chooses to style himself a sanitary engineer or a sanitary plumber is to be regarded as such, by any means, but the physician should make it his business to know who are really reliable in this respect, for he will constantly be called in for advice on this point by those who have learned that good plumbing is the only true economy, but who do not feel themselves competent to distinguish between good and bad work. The main points of a satisfactory system are the following.3
3 For further details consult the following: American Sanitary Engineering, by E. S. Philbrick, N.Y., 1881; House-Drainage and Water-Service, by James C. Bayles, N.Y., 1878; "House-Drainage and Sanitary Plumbing," by W. P. Gerhard, in Fourth Annual Report State Board of Health Rhode Island, 1882; The Sanitary Engineer, a weekly journal published at 140 William St., New York City.
1. All soil- and waste-pipes should be extended up to and through the roof, and be freely open at the top. The extension of the soil-pipe should be full size—i.e. from four to six inches in diameter.
2. There should be a fresh-air inlet in the house sewer just outside the house, and between this inlet and the main sewer should be a trap so arranged as to permit of inspection. This prevents the ventilation of sewers through the soil-pipes. If a perfect system of sewers, uniformity of house-connections, and uniform height of houses could be guaranteed, this inlet and trap would not be so necessary, although even then it would be useful.
3. Every water-closet, wash-bowl, bath-tub, sink, etc. should have a trap placed as close to it as possible. This trap is desirable, whether the discharge be into the sewer system or not. For example, a kitchen sink, the pipe from which passes to the outer air and discharges there, should be trapped, for this pipe is foul, and if it be untrapped will act as an air-inlet.
4. The nearer to the soil-pipe that the fixtures can be arranged the better. It is especially desirable to avoid the necessity for long horizontal waste-pipes from stationary waste-bowls and from bath-tubs.
5. Bell traps, D traps, bottle traps, and mechanical traps are objectionable. The S trap is, upon the whole, the best, but it should be provided with a vent-pipe to prevent siphonage.
6. The best kind of water-closet for general use is probably some form of what are known as the wash-out closets. They are made in one piece of earthenware, have no machinery inside them, have a quantity of water in the basin into which the excreta drop, and do not require a separate trap beneath them. Each closet must, however, be carefully tested by itself: a very small warp or twist produced in the baking may so interfere with the siphonage as to make it practically worthless, and the basin cannot be altered or repaired. For use in public places some of the hopper closets are very satisfactory, the best which I have examined being the Rhoads Hopper and the Hellyer Hoppers. Where there are no children, and it is certain that the fixtures will be used with reasonable care, valve closets may be used. No form of pan closet can be considered as satisfactory, nor have I found any form of plunger closet that I would specially recommend.
7. Water-closets should always be flushed from a special tank provided for the purpose, and never direct from the main system of water-pipes. The flush must be large and rapid, and this requires a large supply-pipe, and for many forms of closets a flushing rim. Whatever be the form of closet, it should not be encased in a wooden box or closet, as is usually done, but it should stand freely exposed to light and air. Sanitarians commonly advise that water-closets should be located in outer walls and have an open window for ventilation. Such a position is usually impossible, and is not specially desirable in our climate. The open window acts as an inlet quite as often as it does as an outlet, and the air of the closet is thus swept into the house. The room should be ventilated in such a way that the tendency of the air at the door shall always be from the house into it. This is to be effected by a shaft passing through the room up and through the roof; and it is well to have this shaft take its air-supply from just behind the closet or from beneath the seat. It is best made of galvanized iron, and at a convenient point should be expanded into a lantern and have a gas-jet placed in it. The air-supply for the closet is to be taken at the bottom of the door or through a transom or louvres. Ventilating pipes from a water-closet should never be run into a brick flue. While it is not so important as many writers seem to think that a water-closet should be placed on an outer wall, it is very important that it should be as light as possible, and the placing it in a dark corner in the basement or under the stairs is very objectionable.