C. Overlap Stitch.—This is the "long and short" on a curved line, not form. The first stitch is taken from the end of the line along its length, the next stitch is taken just below the start of the first on the line, over to the other side of the first and to a point just above the finish of the first, thus lapping. Continue these stitches long and short. This is the way to work round the circumference of a circle. Curved tendrils are very effective embroidered in the overlap stitch. See Fig. I c.
Fig. I d. Tapestry Stitch.
D. Tapestry Stitch.—A stitch similar to feather stitch except that its lines are all in one direction. The stitches do not slant to accommodate themselves to a form but are all straight and in all cases parallel and terminate abruptly as they come against the outline of the form whether they are within it or are used to fill the background. This is essentially a filling stitch and is the most beautiful way to embroider backgrounds. In composition with opus plumarium it is wonderfully rich. There are many superb examples of this work in the old opus anglicanam, where it was largely used to represent drapery, and, in its most perfect application, faces. In a word it is parallel "opus plumarium." Its rows should be well lapped. See Fig. I d. The light shade in the engraving is intended simply to show the system of stitches; there are three rows, each worked in the same color, completely covering the linen and presenting an absolutely smooth surface.
Fig. II a. Simple Satin Stitch.
The above four stitches are based upon the "long and short" element.
II. Satin Stitches.
A. Simple Satin Stitch.—The next stitch in importance is the "Satin Stitch," and it has various applications. This stitch forms an unbroken surface not only in effect but in reality. The stitches are taken parallel and from side to side of the outline or over the space they are to cover. On coarse material and with one of the heavier silks, such as Corticelli Roman Floss or Rope Silk, it is possible to make them quite long, but when fine material is used they must be short to lie well. Embroidery in this stitch is more or less mechanical and does not allow of shading. It is used principally in narrow bars, which are often first raised by stitches laid at right angles to the direction the satin stitch is to take. We show two very good examples of satin stitch.
