Field artillery materiel

by Unknown

Firing, Precautions and Preparations for.

Before firing, inspect to see that cylinders are properly closed and that the cylinder end stud nut and piston rod-nut are in place. If time permits, oil slides before firing. Note length of recoil for the first few shots to be sure that the recoil mechanism is working properly. There is no danger as long as the recoil does not exceed 48 inches. Therefore, for first shot always set recoil indicator for about 42 inches. If the gun fails to return fully into battery, it is probably due (1) to dirt on slides and guides, (2) to cutting of slide surfaces on account of lack of oil, (3) to gland being screwed up too tightly, (4) to dirt or foreign particles in the cylinder, and especially in the counter recoil buffer recess, (5) to weakness of springs, 90% of such cases will be found to be due to 1, 2 or 3. Lock the cradle to the trail at drill and at traveling to avoid unnecessary strain upon the pointing mechanism. After unlimbering, release elevating and traversing lock before attempting to elevate or traverse gun.

Cleaning and Care of Leather.

All leather contains more or less oil. When the amount of oil decreases the leather becomes harder, less pliable, and shows a tendency to crack. It loses its elasticity and breaks more readily under sudden strains. Exposure to the sun evaporates the oil and exposure to the rain washes it out, both conditions tending in the long run to bring the same result, namely, hardening and stiffening of the leather. Accumulations of foreign substances are very injurious for they tend to absorb the oil from the leather underneath, leaving it dry and hard, or they retain moisture on the surface, prevent the air from getting to it and rot the leather. Also many substances such as perspiration and excretion from the horse contain chemicals which are very injurious. For these reasons all leather must be kept clean. The cleaning agent used is castile soap with water. All pieces should be taken apart and as much dirt and dust as possible removed with a damp sponge or cloth. All remaining dirt is then removed by washing with castile soap and water. In doing this always use as little water as possible. Wring the sponge out nearly dry, rub it on the soap and work it with the hands until a thick, creamy lather is formed. Then scrub the leather thoroughly until all dirt is removed. Special care should be taken around spots that have been in contact with metal perspiration or excreta. If there is an old accumulation of dirt a soft stick may be used to scrape this off. Never allow a knife or a piece of glass to be used or any sharp edged instrument. After all dirt is removed run the sponge in one direction, all the way along the leather to remove all remaining dirt and extra lather. Never allow the pieces to be rinsed off in a bucket of water. Metal parts should be washed thoroughly and dried and if necessary any rust removed with a crocus cloth. Although as little water as possible is used some of the oil in the leather will certainly be washed out, and, to keep the leather in proper condition, it must be replaced. After an ordinary cleaning this is normally done by an application of saddle soap. Saddle soap is not a cleaning agent—only a dressing for leather. It contains enough oil to replace, if properly applied, all loss through ordinary use. It is used in the same manner as castile soap, in the form of a thick, creamy lather, rubbed well into the leather and allowed to dry. The leather should be well rubbed with the hands while drying, to keep it soft and pliable, and to work the oil in. Always allow it to dry in the shade, preferably for several hours, and never assemble pieces, especially fastening straps into buckles until thoroughly dry. Oil is never applied directly to leather unless it has become so hard and dry that saddle soap is not sufficient to soften it. There is only one oil issued for that purpose. That is “Neat’s Foot Oil.” This should only be applied to the flesh side of the leather and very lightly. Several light applications give much better results than a few heavy ones. The oil should be well rubbed in with the hands and should be preferably applied after cleaning the leather with castile soap and water, as the pores of the leather are then more open and the oil penetrates much better. Never oil leather until it becomes greasy, for, besides wasteful, it makes the leather too spongy. In emergencies, where Neat’s Foot Oil cannot be procured any good vegetable oil may be used, preferably olive oil. This is only for emergencies and is not to be used unless Neat’s Foot Oil or saddle soap cannot be had. All new leather equipment should be cleaned with castile soap and water as soon as unpacked as leather very often becomes covered with mold after being packed in boxes for some time. Ordnance leather as it comes to the battery is very dry and should be thoroughly oiled before being used. New equipment after being washed thoroughly, should be given, in several light applications as much oil as it will absorb without becoming greasy. Each application should be allowed to dry thoroughly and should be given frequent rubbings to soften the leather. With the proper kind of preparation for use there is no excuse for the large amount of broken new leather equipment which is so common. In packing harness for shipment, especially into harness sacks the harness should be cleaned and oiled and then dried for at least twenty-four hours before putting into the sacks. After removing from the sacks at the destination, cleaning and dressing with saddle soap is sufficient. When the leather is dirty, clean it—not to improve its looks but to preserve it. When wet allow it to dry in a warm (not hot) place, in cold weather; or in the shade in summer. When it is dry apply saddle soap or oil. Never hang any piece of equipment over a nail or sharp edge as cracks always develop where the leather has been folded over sharply. Ordinary oils and greases rot leather, so all such equipment must be kept away from contact with them. Never leave any piece of leather where it will chafe against any sharp edge or corner and never leave it exposed to the sun longer than necessary.

Care of Cloth Equipment.

All cloth equipment should be kept as clean as possible by continual brushing. The fewer times necessary to wash it, the longer its life. Canvas goods such as paulins, webbing, etc., when it becomes necessary to wash them should be scrubbed with Paco, or H. & H. soap and water. Make a solution of one cake of either soap in nine cups of hot water. Brush the article to be cleaned thoroughly and spread it on a clean table. Scrub with the above solution and scrubbing brush until a good lather appears. Rinse in clean water and hang in the shade to dry. Woolen articles may be cleaned in the same manner or with ordinary laundry soap. The first method being always the best. It is preferable to wash these in cool or warm water, as hot water shrinks them. Never wring woolens out, but after washing, rinse in clean water and hang immediately up to dry. Saddle blankets should be kept well brushed and should be frequently unfolded, hung in the sun and beaten with a whip. When removed from the horse they should be doubled over with the wet side out and put in the shade to dry. If no shade is available, and they must be exposed to the sun, always fold the wet side inward. With these precautions, saddle blankets should not need washing oftener than twice a year. In washing immerse the blanket in tepid soap suds repeatedly until clean, rinse in clean water, and hang in the sun to dry. Do not scrub the blanket.

Care of Metal.

All metal equipment should be kept clean and free from rust. Coal oil is used to remove rust, but it must always be removed as it will rust the metal if allowed to remain. The coal oil should be applied to the metal and if possible allowed to remain for a short time. This will loosen and partially dissolve the rust so that it can be rubbed off with a rag or a sponge. Continued applications may be necessary if there is much rust. A solution of Sal Soda is also a good rust remover. The articles must be washed thoroughly after using this to remove all traces of the soda as it is a very active corrosive. Never scour metals to remove rust if it can be avoided as this leaves a roughened surface which will rust again much more easily. Polished surfaces such as brass fittings should be cleaned and polished with Lavaline. This may also be used on the bearing surfaces of steel collars. All surfaces after cleaning should be dried thoroughly and if not painted should be greased with cosmis or cosmoline. These form an air-proof coating over the metal surface so that no moisture may reach it and cause rusting. If the metal is not dried thoroughly, some moisture may be held between the grease and the metal surface which will in time cause rust to appear. Care must be taken that the grease covers the surface completely. All surfaces against which there is no friction should be painted and kept so. Ordinary olive drab or collar paint is very satisfactory for this purpose.

Care of Guns During and After Firing.

Always while firing keep the bore as clean as possible. If there is time to swab out between shots, do so. During continued firing a bucket of water should be kept near the gun, and the sponge on the rammers staff kept wet while swabbing. Watch the recoil indicator and occasionally push it ahead so as to be sure you are getting a correct reading. Be sure that the gun returns fully into battery after each shot. Keep the ammunition, and especially the rotating bands, free from dust and dirt.