Harness making

by Unknown

In making a cart collar (see Fig. 95) the first part to take in hand is the forewale A; the material for this must always be cut 8 in. longer than double the length of the collar when finished, to allow for shrinkage. Supposing the collar is to be 20 in., the leather must be cut 48 in. long. The leather can be cut from the bellies of gear hides, which come in handy when proper hide is not available. Cut it 7½ in. wide and make the length to meet requirements, and then damp it thoroughly. Stretch it on a flat board by holding one edge with the hand and pulling the other edge with the pincers. Fold it over 2¾ in. all along; adjust the compass by rule to 2¼ in., and mark from the turned side, so that there will be ¼ in. of leather outside the mark on which to stitch the lining. On the opposite side there will be about 2 in. to draw in the body B and stitch the side-pieces. Tack along the mark here and there to keep it in its place.

Fig. 95.—Cart Collar without Side-piece.

Make a ten-strand thread, waxing it before and after twisting. This thread must be long enough to stitch all the length, and at least twice as long as ordinary thread. Use strong needles, making about three stitches to the inch; always leave the stitches slack, merely drawing them home, especially for about a foot on each side of the centre. Thus the forewale will bend easier in working round, and the stitches will tighten enough in stuffing. If the leather has an uneven grain, close here and open there, a piece of calico slack may be put inside the forewale A; take care that both sides of it are caught in stitching. This will help to keep it straight even when being stuffed.

The forewale is now ready for stuffing. Having a bundle of rye straw at hand, pull a few handfuls across the knee until the straw is straight; cut the ears off, and then cut the handful of straw in half, and again divide it with the collar knife until about 9 in. long. Place it neatly in a heap near the working-seat on the right-hand side, with the collar rod and mallet lying close by; there must also be a thick, solid block of wood placed on the firm ground in front of the worker’s seat.

The collar-maker must now sit down and mark the centre of the leather with a nick or stitch. The forewale is now placed on the block, and the left foot laid on it, about 2½ in. from the centre, the folded part of the forewale being furthest. Put the other end on the right knee, and, holding the collar rod in the left hand point upwards with the head against the knee, take about half a dozen cut straws, and give them a half twist with both hands. Place the centre of the wisp in the nick of the collar rod and hold it firm with the right hand, the forewale being handled with the left. Put the straw in the forewale and press it down to where the foot is on the block, 2½ in. from the centre; beat the wisp well on the block with the mallet, leather as well, and then put another wisp in from the other end, taking care, when putting in the wisps, that they do not catch those already inside and drive them back; to avoid this, beat well after each wisp has been put in, and when the iron reaches them raise the point a little. Continue to work in this way, putting in wisps alternately at each end until the forewale is as hard as it can be made. When the straw seems firm enough not to move, the wisps can be knocked in instead of being pushed by hand. See that they go into the centre of the straw. Push the straw and rod down the centre as far as possible; turn the forewale and the rod with the point upwards, knocking the wisp in firmly against the collar block in front.

Repeat the process from the other side, and so on until all is as hard as a piece of wood. To shape and round the collar it must be continually turned round the knee, turning one side to the right and the other to the left hand. This operation is repeated after every one or two wisps are put inside; take care that the forewale does not get straight. When turned enough, three or four wisps may be put into each side before changing; but both sides must be shaped alike.

When approaching the top, shape it inwards a little in the same way as it was turned; fill with straw until the top is quite firm, and then place it flat on the block, beating it well into shape with the round mallet, and holding it down with both knees at one end while shaping the other. Now damp it, and turn it backwards a little at the top on both sides; stitch both points firmly together with waxed twine and collar needle and hand iron, cutting a little off when necessary to bring it to the right length.

To make a pipe collar, follow all the above directions and proceed as below. Obtain a piece of iron 9 in. long, ½ in. in diameter, and having a sharp point; in the middle it must be shaped half-round, with the points turning a little outwards and upwards. Put straw around it, tying it as tightly as possible to within 2 in. from each point, and let the straw at each end be of different lengths, a few inches longer than the points of the iron, so that it will splice well when stuffing is commenced. Add straw, and tie again until the straw around the iron is the right size, then place it in the centre of the forewale, and stitch as tightly as possible, pulling the stitches well; make sure that it fills the forewale well, but having passed this part, leave the stitches slack. Now stitch from end to end, and stuff from each end as in the other case, remembering to splice them well where the iron ends; the sharp point will not be much of a hindrance. Finish as with the other collar.

In making the body of the collar, cut the lining to Fig. 96, and in any required size; 14 in. is about the average at the draught when the strain of pulling is on the collar. Cut a leather throat-piece about 2 in. wide at the base, and widening out to 3½ in. in a sweep to the top. Stitch the narrowest end of the lining, which is about 4½ in. deep, to the sweep of the throat-piece, turning in a little of the linen or woollen check to make the part under the stitches strong.