Harness making

by Unknown

The girths, flaps, and dock are now put in position. Then place the front of the panel against that of the tree, and press it in the centre just against the top of the tree. Having the pieces to be nailed on the centre of the board stitched to the panel, fasten them to this part with four or five small tacks, making sure that the panel lies close. Deal with the hind part of the panel in the same manner. Some harness makers always run a piece of lace from the centre of the panel to the centre of the tree in front, where it is nailed close to the tree.

The next operation is to cut the housings (Figs. 100 and 101) or cover for the saddle top; the width must be 5 in. to 7 in., and the length sufficient to reach from end to end over the tree by the side of the groove on each side. The length can be measured with string. Do not cut the ends square to the measurement, but bulge and round them so that they are 3 in. more along the centre. Narrow the front housing (Fig. 101) slightly for about 10 in. in the centre so that it will rise there, and cut the part to be nailed at the back as before, namely about 6 in. wide on each side from the centre, narrowing to a sharp point at the lower end. The back housing (Fig. 100) being straight on the outside, begin to cut on the side about to be nailed from the corners upwards, narrowing an inch from the corner until it comes to a point in the middle. This improves the appearance and lifts the front from the shoulder, the back being thus made to match the entire piece. Make three rows around the edges with a race compass and run the lines deep with a beveller.

Fig. 100.—Cart Saddle Hind Housing.

A brass oval or octagon may be placed on each corner of the housings at equal distances from the edge and end. Put these pieces in position and nail them to the tree through the centre; then tighten them at each end with the seat awl or other strong awl, pulling down hard from the centre and driving in a nail on each side while tightening. Drive nails all along about 2 in. apart, being careful to make the edge of the housing quite flush with the edge of the tree so as to obtain the proper shape. The nails can then be covered with brass beading ⅞ in. wide, or a welt of the same width may be nailed down with brass or japanned head nails. Seven or eight stitches, nine per inch, must now be put in the lower part of the housing at the four ends through the flap, and will thus bind all neatly and firmly.

For the cart-saddle crupper, the body must be cut 2 ft. 6 in. or 2 ft. 8 in. long and 3½ in. to 4 in. wide; cut a semicircle in the centre from the weak end, a point about ¾ in. wide being left at each side of the semicircle, and then cut an 8-in. piece to line with this end. Next cut a piece of leather ⅞ in. wide and 8½ in. long, shaving the ends thin. Stitch it with the edges together so as to make it round to within 1½ in. from each end. A cord or bit of leather may be placed in the centre to reinforce this; then rub it round and blacken it, and flatten both ends out with a hammer; this is for hanging the saddle on a peg.

The body that was cut first must now be pointed at the square end, the width being reduced to about 2 in., the same cut being made on each side. Race it along the sides and ends, then edge, black, and run a hot iron over the creases. Now prick it, about nine per inch, as far as the termination of the lining from the semicircle.

The ends of the round piece lately made are brought together and put under the points, one on each side; place the lining under them, and stitch it all round and across the points from side to side with a three-cord black wax thread, and trim, black, and rub the edges. Cut the lay 1 in. narrower than the body and 3 ft. long; turn it in 10 in. at the strong end and beat it flat. Turn it down 2 in. at the other end, and cut it slanting down to 1½ in. wide for a buckle of the same width; cut a hole for the buckle and run a line across the broad end 2 in. from the point, another in the same direction ¼ in. from the end of the bend underneath, and a third 2½ in. from this part towards the buckle. Edge only the top, just reaching over the end of the broad bend; then make two lines of creasing and run a hot iron over them.

Inner lines are made about ¼ in. from the innermost line, from the first cross line to the second, and from the third to the buckle. Two spaces are left for openings for the hip straps, one in the bend and the other in the middle; black and prick the parts to be stitched, four lines between the two openings and four lines from the other side of the second opening in the direction of the buckle. Fix the buckle in place and lay it flat in the centre of the body, the extremity of the broad end of the lay reaching the edge of the semicircle; tack it down and stitch, keeping it well in position while working. Stitch coarse or spot along the three marked lines near the openings. The body is now finished.