Harness making

by Unknown

The loops having been damped before being attached, place a loop-stick ¾ in. wide in each loop; then knock them square and level to shape. Black them with soda and dye, dry partially with rag, and rub and polish well with a bone, making them shine brightly. Now trim the underside of the cheek, round the square edges, and polish. Apply a coat of Harris’s harness liquid both to the loops and to the edges; rub them well with the palm of the hand and then with a little tallow, after which they must be again rubbed with a rag.

The loops are now ready for creasing and checking, but in the first place make sure that the loops are in condition; if too dry, they cannot be creased deeply enough, and if too wet the bevels and marks cannot be polished. Test with a hot crease and then hold them near the fire a little while; finally rub with the hand until they are dry enough. Attention must also be given to the temperature of the tools when heated in the fire, candle, or gas. Therefore, keep on the bench a small quantity of water into which to dip the heated tools; if the beveller or checker hisses in the water it must be kept there until this ceases.

Now with the screw crease or compass make two or three lines across each end of the loop, and two rows near each other along the edges on the face. Trace out the design on the surface between the outer lines, namely diamonds, single arrow point, or double arrow points, etc. Having warmed the beveller, mark deeply the cross and outside lines, polish them, and then mark the outer lines of the design with the beveller on the surface of the loop.

The space between the outer lines of the design and the straight lines at the edge and sides must now be marked with the warm checker, which may be fine or coarse, according to the style of work; the design also will vary with the fineness or coarseness of the work. The checking being finished, run the beveller along all the outer lines in the design and the straight line, to smooth down the checker marks running to the bevelled lines and to give boldness to the work.

The noseband is made by cutting the leather 2 ft. 8 in. long by 1 in.; it must then be marked 5 in. from the point and again at a distance of ⅞ in. from this mark; then a third mark is made 13 in. farther on, and a fourth ⅞ in. from the last mark. Turn down 2 in. of the end marked last for the buckle; take ⅛ in. from each end and each side as far as the cross mark nearest the ends. Make a buckle hole and shave, bend, and round the other end for the point. Cut another piece for a lining, taking the first as a pattern, and then thin the edges of both, slanting from the middle of the strap on both sides, but do not thin the ⅞-in. space in either piece.

Fig. 185.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.

The first piece of leather that was cut with a buckle hole can now be damped; then with a grooving board and hammer handle a groove is made along the full length, not including the two ⅞-in. spaces. Now cut a hole in the outer side of each of the cross lines, marking two spaces, and cut two loops about ⅜ in. by 2 in. Shave the points, damp, and put one end in each hole over the ⅞-in. space; beat the points a little to flatten them to the leather, and leave sufficient space for the billet to pass between the loops and the noseband.

Crease the noseband on both sides from end to end, ⅛ in. from the edge, and, if required, another line can be made at the same distance farther in from opening to opening in the centre only. Prick the lines all along except opposite the openings, fine or coarse, according to the style of work, and then put the lining underneath and the buckle in its place. Tack it here and there with fine tacks and with three-cord fine hemp stitch from end to end, around the point, and across at the end of the centre loops to fasten the loops near the openings.

Stitch a second line if needed, and then the buckle chape from underneath, and put in one or two loops. Trim the edges, sandpaper, black them, and polish; then place sticks in the loops and finish, making four holes in the short end.