The breeching straps to go round the shafts must be cut 3 ft. 3 in. by 1¼ in., and when the light ends are turned down, are 2 ft. 6 in. long. Round the point, and shave that of the turn over; then prepare the bend for the buckle, and edge, black, and crease.
Cut four strong loops about ⅞ in. wide, and having neatly finished them, prick along about 3 in. from the buckle on the lower side. Tack on the two loops, one near the buckle in the usual position, and the other close to it but in the reverse position to turn under the strap. Stitch them with strong thread, and, having finished them, bend the strap from the loop to the end of the underpiece and run a dozen stitches on each side at the point. Bend it so that when in position in the ring the parts will be even; if stitched without bending, the lower part will pucker. Finish the loops and put six holes in each strap.
The back-band (Fig. 190, p. [147]) may now be cut out, its complete length being 8 ft. The centre piece passing through the saddle is 3 ft. 3 in. long, the strap or buckling end measuring 1 ft. 6 in., and the remainder being for girth. If it is for a van harness it must be in three thicknesses along the centre, but the strap end will be strong enough in two thicknesses; when the belly-band part is very light it may also be thickened a little. Place the belly-band buckle in the belly-band end, and if necessary line the chape; then round the point at the strap end. Crease all along and make two rows on each side of the centre, bringing them together in a point at the extremities. Strictly speaking, one row on each side of the belly band and strap will suffice, but four rows are better; in the last case, crossing the two middle centre lines at the end of the centre part will improve the appearance.
An opening must be left in the stitching about 1½ in. from the buckle, and two openings lower down, 2 in. apart, to receive three loops when the back-band has been completed. Stitch it about eight per inch, with four-cord thread.
For finishing, use a spokeshave, and rub the stitches underneath to level them well; round the edges well towards the stitches, making the edges neat in appearance. Scrape it with glasspaper, place the buckle on the hook, and black the edges and stitches; rub vigorously with the rag in the right hand, holding each side of the back-band with the other. The hand should be moved briskly backwards and forwards so as to dry and polish the edges well. Now pass a ball of tallow along the edges and again rub well with the rag, after which the three loops may be placed on the belly band and stitched from below, the reverse side to the other stitches. Then punch eight or nine holes in the strap and three in the centre part at equal distances from each crossing of the middle row of stitches, or from the point of the inner rows if the centre only has four rows of stitching. Leave about 1 ft. 6 in. in the centre without holes.
The shaft tugs (Fig. 191, p. [147]) are made by cutting a 1 ft. 7¾ in. length of leather to the same width as the buckles and back-band—that is, 1¾ in. Overlap this piece 4½ in., the overlap then being bent together and knocked flat in the centre. Through both leathers cut a hole for a buckle in the bend, and shave a little on the sides of the hole underneath where the tongue enters, so that the buckle will run close to the leather.
Shave both ends, the inner very thin and the outer or top one moderately, cutting a little off each corner. Crease two rows on each side as on the back-band, and, having pricked the rows seven per inch, place the brass or nickel loop loose on the strap and adjust the buckle therein. Draw the two holes in the centre, where the buckle is placed, exactly opposite each other, and stitch the top point of the overlap along the two inner lines for about 2 in. through the two leathers.
The shape being now obtained, the tug must be filled and thickened. This is done by cutting a piece of leather to fit the inside tight from one side of the buckle to the other, keeping the buckle in position while working. Cut a nick in the centre of each end of this piece so that the tongue and sides may fit close to the buckle, and then cut another good piece of leather to go round inside tight and to overlap at the top for about 1½ in. Now shave each end and cut a groove on each side for about the length of the loop on the part intended for it, and overlap it on the side opposite the loop just below the buckle, with the outer point of the overlap on the top pointing towards the buckle and not downwards.
If the tug needs more thickening, place another piece under the inside lining to reach from the metal loop (placed below the leather loop) round the bottom and about halfway up the other side, leaving it with its thickness at the end near the metal loop; shave the other end thin.
The metal loop must fit tight between the end of the piece and the leather loop. It must now be tacked together from the inside, the joint at the overlap being made firm. The lining should be of sole leather; damp it well so that it will fit into its place and be easier to stitch. Begin stitching at the buckle with four-cord thread and work round to the metal loop; then begin at this part on the other side and stitch to the buckle. Continue to work in this way until four rows are stitched.