The operations involved in making perfumes are simple; the chief thing to be learned, perhaps, is to judge of the quality of materials.
The term “extract,” when used in most formulas, means an alcoholic solution of the odorous principles of certain flowers obtained by enfluerage; that is, the flowers are placed in contact with prepared grease which absorbs the odorous matter, and this grease is in turn macerated with alcohol which dissolves out the odor. A small portion of the grease is taken up also at ordinary temperatures; this is removed by filtering the “extract” while “chilled” by a freezing mixture. The extracts can be either purchased or made directly from the pomade (as the grease is called). To employ the latter method successfully some experience may be necessary.
The tinctures are made with 95 per cent deodorized alcohol, enough menstruum being added through the marc when filtering to bring the finished preparation to the measure of the menstruum originally taken.
The glycerine is intended to act as a “fixing” agent—that is, to lessen the volatility of the perfumes.
Tinctures For Perfumes.—
a. Ambergris, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 15 parts.
b. Benzoin, Sumatra, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 6 parts.
c. Musk, 1 part; distilled water, 25 parts; spirit, 96 per cent, 25 parts.
d. Musk, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 50 parts; for very oleiferous compositions.
e. Peru balsam, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 7 parts; shake vigorously.