In right-handed splicing, the ends to be tucked are simply laid several times round one strand each, and offer no resistance to any such unlaying process. However, a right-handed splice is easier and neater to make, and these splices are becoming general, some splicers making it a rule to put a “lock” in by tucking the ends once left-handed. A right-handed splice is strong enough for most ordinary purposes, but if a left-handed splice is tucked three times and put on a testing machine, it would break the rope before it would draw out; whereas, if a right-handed splice were tucked three times and put to the same test, it would pull out. However, if the right-handed splice, instead of being tucked three times were tucked eight times, it would stand any stress that could be put on it; in fact, six times through is quite sufficient for ordinary purposes.
Fig. 179.—Method of Serving Wire Rope.
Fig. 180.—Partly-finished Splice.
Fig. 181.—Wire Rope ready for Splicing.
The following is the method of right-handed splicing. First fasten up the rope-end from the vice to any convenient column or hook, and mark off from the end, as at A (Fig. 179), the length for the splice, which will be from 1½ ft. to 6 ft., according to the size of rope; say 2 ft. of end for 2 in. cir. rope. Measure with a string round the groove of the thimble, and transfer the length to the rope, marking it as at A B. To put a seizing on the “neck” of the splice, as in Fig. 180, add 6 in. or 8 in. to the length of rope to be served. Now take a narrow strip of parcelling—that is, thin bagging—and bind it neatly round the rope from A to B (Fig. 179). The rule is: Worm and parcel with the lay, but serve the rope the other way. Next take a serving-mallet D (Fig. 179), with a bobbin full of spun yarn upon it, and, beginning at B, serve over the parcelling to A. Cut off and make fast the end of spun yarn, when the work will be ready for turning in the thimble. A chalk mark midway between A and B will serve as a guide in getting in the thimble straight. Next bring the end of the rope round on the double to form a loop, with A and B exactly level. Open the vice sufficiently to take in that loop, insert the thimble, taking care to have it exactly straight, and screw up the vice as tightly as possible. Securely fasten the rope and thimble together at the “neck” A (Fig. 181), when the rope should appear as there illustrated. Fasten it in the vice with the thimble hanging downwards, and the part to be spliced held up by a line suspended from some convenient joist or girder. Take the whipping off the rope-end, and open out the strands singly, to be ready for tucking. Looking at the rope from the direction of the arrow A (Fig. 182), drive a marlinespike through the two strands on the extreme left, taking care, of course, always to miss the core of the rope. Twist the spike up the rope about half a turn, so as to make an easier bend for the strand, then take the strand nearest the opening, tuck it through, and haul tight. Then, most important, force down the strand with the marlinespike till it occupies the position indicated in the dotted lines of Fig. 182.
Fig. 182.—Right-handed Splice, First Tuck.