Fig. 192.—Socket Opened Out.
About all the tools necessary for long-splicing are two flat spikes or tuckers and one round one, each say 18 in. long, a sledge and set for cutting the rope and strands, a hand hammer for driving in the spikes, a strong pair of cutting pliers and the top-swage (Fig. 188). A very useful wire rope clamp is shown in Fig. 189.
Fig. 193.—Socket in Wire Rope.
In addition to the method of fitting attachments to wire ropes by means of splicing, as already described in this chapter, there is the method of socketing, shoeing, or capping, as it is variously called. There is a great difference between the rough product of the colliery black-smith, in the shape of the common link socket, and the highly finished cast-steel socket or the turned steel socket of the engineer; and in concluding this chapter it is purposed to deal with them all.
Fig. 190 is a view of the ordinary link socket, often used at collieries as a means of temporarily repairing a broken rope. A whipping of soft wire or spun yarn is put on each end of the rope, and a few wires then bent sharply back over the whipping and cut off an inch or two shorter than the socket that fits over them. The rest of the rope-end is cut off as close to the whipping as possible, and the sockets, which, of course, are ready opened, are put on, hammered down close, and firmly clinched with three rivets.
A very common socket in everyday use is shown by Figs. 191 to 193; this is principally used on haulage ropes and ships’ steering-gear. The eye may be of either round or square section, the latter being the strongest and best. As a rule, these sockets are fixed on the rope by means of rivets only, but when attached to winding ropes they are secured with strong steel hoops, which are forged to make a close fit at intermediate distances on the socket, as in Fig. 194.
Fig. 194.—Hooped Winding Rope Socket.
Sometimes hoops are used in conjunction with rivets. When a hooped socket leaves the black-smith’s shop, the hoops should be a close fit at equal distances on the socket; and as a guide to replacing them correctly, both socket and hoops should be pop-marked with a centre-punch as shown.