Chimney Bases.—Fig. 36 shows the base for the 90 ft. brick-stack at Don Guillermo. The resemblance to masonry is given by nailing strips of wood on the inside of the crib.
Fig. 35.—Concrete Dust Chamber designed for smelter at Murray Mine, Sudbury, Ontario, Can. (End elevation.)
Retaining-Walls.—Figs. 37, 38, and 39 show three different styles of retaining-walls, according to location. These walls are shown in section only, and show the placing of the iron reenforcements. Retaining-walls are best built in panels (each panel being a day’s work), for the reason that horizontal joints in the concrete are thereby avoided. The alternate panels should be built first and the intermediate spaces filled in afterward. Should there be water behind the wall it is best to insert a few small pipes through the wall, in order to carry it off; this precaution is particularly important in places where the natural surface of the ground meets the wall, as shown in Figs. 37 and 38. If a wooden building is to be erected on the retaining-wall, it is best to bury a few 0.75 in. bolts vertically in the top of the wall, by which a wooden coping may be secured (see Figs. 37, 38, and 39), which forms a good commencement for the carpenter work.
Fig. 36.—Concrete Base for a 90 ft. Chimney at the Guillermo Smelting Works, Palomares, Spain.
Minimum thickness for a retaining-wall, having a liberal quantity of iron embedded therein, is 20 in. at the bottom and 10 in. at the top, with the taper preferably on the inner face. In the absence of interior strengthening irons the thickness of the wall at the bottom should never be less than one-fourth the total hight, and at the top one-seventh of the hight; unless very liberal iron bracing be used, the dimensions can hardly be reduced to less than one-seventh and one-tenth respectively. Unbraced retaining-walls are more stable with the batter on the outer face. Dry clay is the most treacherous material that can be had behind a retaining-wall, especially if it be beaten in, for the reason that it is so prone to absorb moisture and swell, causing an enormous side thrust against the wall. When this material is to be retained it is best to build the wall superabundantly strong—a precaution which applies even to a dry climate, because the bursting of a water-pipe may cause the damage. In order to avoid horizontal joints it is best, wherever practicable, to build the crib-work in its entirety before starting the concrete. In a retaining-wall 3 ft. thick by 16 ft. high this is not practicable. The supporting posts and struts can, however, be completed and the boards laid in as the wall grows, in order not to interrupt the regular progress of the tamping. A good finish may be produced on the exposed face of the wall by a few strokes of the shovel up and down with its back against the crib.
Figs. 37, 38, and 39.—Retaining-Walls of Concrete.
In conclusion I wish to state that this paper is not written for the instruction of the civil engineer, or for those who have special experience in this line; but rather for the mining engineer or metallurgist whose training is not very deep in this direction, and who is so often thrown upon his own resources in the wilderness, and who might be glad of a few practical suggestions from one who has been in a like predicament.