The ordinary form of the Scotch hearth is probably too well known to need much description. The dimensions which have been found most suitable are as follows: Front to back, 21 in.; width, 27 in.; depth of hearth, 8 to 12 in. Formerly the distance from front to back was 24 in., but this was found too much for the blast and for the men.

The cast-iron hearth which holds the molten lead is set in brickwork; if 8 in. deep and capable of holding about ¾ ton of lead, it is quite large enough. The workstone or inclined plate in front of the hearth is cast in one piece with it, and has a raised holder on either side at the lower edge, and a gutter to convey the overflowing lead to the melting-pot. The latter is best made with a partition and an opening at the bottom through which clean lead can run, so that it can be ladled into molds without the necessity for skimming the dross off the surface. It is well also to have a small fireplace below the melting-pot.

On each side of the hearth, and resting on it, is a heavy cast-iron block, 9 in. thick, 15 in. high, 27 to 28 in. long. To save metal, these are now cast hollow and air is caused to pass through them. On the back of the hearth stands another cast-iron block known as the “pipestone,” through which the blast comes into the furnace. In the older forms of pipestone the blast comes in through a simple round or oval pipe, a common size being 3 or 4 in. wide by 2½ in. high, and the pipestone is not water-cooled. With this construction the hearth will not run satisfactorily unless the pipestone is set with the greatest care, so as to have the tuyere exactly in the center, and as there is no water-cooling the metal quickly burns away when fume is being smelted. Moreover, the blast is apt to be stopped by slag adhering to the end of the pipe. As already mentioned, a peat is dropped in front of the blast every time the fire is made up, with the object of keeping a clear passage open for the blast. This old custom has, however, several serious disadvantages; first, it prevents the blast being kept on continuously; and, second, it makes it necessary to have the hearth open at the top so that the smelter-man can go in by the side of it. In this case the ore is fed from the side by the smelter-man, who works under the large hood placed above the furnace to carry away the fume. Even when he is engaged in shoveling back the fire from the front and is not underneath the hood, it is impossible to prevent some fume from blowing out; and there is much more liability to lead-poisoning than when the hearth is closed at the top by the chimney and the smelter-men work from the front. The best arrangement is to have the hearth entirely closed in by the chimney, except for the opening at the front, and to have a small auxiliary flue above the workstone leading direct to the open air to catch any fume that may blow out past the shutter in front of the hearth.

In an improved form of pipestone, a pipe connected to the blast-main fits into the semicircular opening at the back and is driven tight against a ridge in the flat side of the opening. Going through the pipestone, the arch becomes gradually flatter, and the blast emerges into the hearth, about 2 in. above the level of the molten lead, through an oblong slit 12 in. long by 1 in. wide, with a ledge projecting 1½ in. immediately above it. The back and front are similar, so that when one side gets damaged the pipestone can be turned back to front.

Water is conveyed in a 2½ in. iron pipe to the pipestone, and after passing through it is led away from the other end to a water-box, which stands beside the hearth and into which the red-hot lumps of slag are thrown to safeguard the smelters from the noxious fumes.

On the top of the pipestone rests an upper backstone, also of cast iron; it extends somewhat higher than the blocks at the sides. All this metal above the level of the lead is necessary because the partially fused lumps which stick to it have to be knocked off with a long bar, so that if fire-bricks were used in place of cast iron they would soon be broken up and destroyed.

With a covered-in hearth, when the ore is charged from the front, the following is the method adopted in smelting raw ore: The charge floats on the molten lead in the hearth, and at short intervals the two smelters running the furnace ease it up with long bars, which they insert underneath in the lead. Any pieces of slag adhering to the sides and pipestone are broken off. After easing up the fire, the lumps of partially reduced ore, mixed with cinders and slag, are shoveled on to the back of the fire; the slag is drawn out upon the workstone (any pieces of ore adhering to it being broken off and returned to the hearth), and it is then quenched in a water-box placed alongside the workstone. One or two shovelfuls of coal, broken fairly small and generally kept damp, are thrown on the fire, together with the necessary amount of ore, which is also kept damp if in a fine state of division. It is part of the duty of the two smelters to ladle out the lead from the melting-pot into the molds. In smelting ore a fairly strong, steady blast is required, and it is made to blow right through so as to keep the front of the fire bright. A little lime is thrown on the front of the fire when the slag gets too greasy.

When smelting raw fume one man attends to the furnace. It does not have to be made up nearly as frequently, the work being easier for one man than smelting ore is for two. The unreduced clinkers and slag are dealt with exactly as in smelting ore; and coal is also, in this case, thrown on the back of the fire, but the blast does not blow right through to the front. On the contrary, the front of the fire is kept tamped up with fume, which should be of the coherency of a thick mud. The blast is not so strong as that necessary for ore. The idea is partially to bake the fume before submitting it to the hottest part of the furnace, or to the part where the blast is most strongly felt. It is only when smelting fume that it is necessary to keep the pipestone water-cooled.

To start a furnace takes from two to three hours. The hearth is left full of lead, and this has to be melted before the hearth is in normal working order. Drawing the fire takes about three-quarters of an hour; the clinkers are taken off and kept for starting the next run, and the sides and back of the hearth are cleaned down.