On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in 1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the improvements here may be considered complete.
To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant says:
"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps—'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (London in the Time of the Stuarts, p. 280).
THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM
We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, and 210 Yards bearing Name.
The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane.
The several Marks and Names of the Wards, Parishes, and Liberties
Wards | |||||
| A | Faringdon Without | I | Dowgate | R | Aldersgate |
| B | Faringdon Within | K | Broad-Street | S | Billingsgate |
| C | Bainard-Castle | L | Cornhil | T | Lime-Street |
| D | Bread-Street | M | Cheap | U | Langborn |
| E | Queen-Hith | N | Bassishaw | W | Portsoken |
| F | Cordwainers | O | Coleman-Street | X | Aldgate |
| G | Walbrook | P | Bishopsgate | Y | Candlewick |
| H | Vintry | Q | Cripplegate CripT Tower | Z | Bridg |
Parishes and Liberties | |||||
| 01. St. James Clerkenwel 02. St. Giles Cripple-Gate 03. St. Leonard Shoreditch 04. Norton-Folgate Liberty 05. St. Botolph Bishopsgate 06. Stepney 07. St. Stephen Coleman Street 08. Alhallows on the Wall 09. St. Andrew Holborn 10. St. Giles in the Fields 11. St. Sepulchers 12. St. Mary Cole-Church 13. St. Botolph Aldersgate 14. St. Alphage 15. St. Alban Wood Street 16. St. Olave Silver Street 17. St. Michael Bassishaw 18. Christ Church 19. St. Anne Aldersgate 20. St. Mary Staining 21. St. Mary Aldermanbury 22. St. Olave Jewry 23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane 24. St. Mildred Poultry 25. St. Bennet Sherehog 26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane 27. St. Laurence Jewry 28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street 29. Alhallows Hony Lane 30. St. Mary le Bow 31. St. Peter Cheap 32. St. Michael Wood Street 33. St. John Zachary 34. St. Martins Liberty 35. St. Leonard Foster Lane 36. St. Vedast, alias Foster 37. St. Michael Quern 38. St. John Evangelist 39. St. Mathew Friday Street 40. St. Margaret Lothbury 41. St. Bartholemew Exchange | 42. St. Christophers 43. St. Mary Woolnoth 44. St. Mary Woolchurch 45. St. Michael Cornhil 46. St. Bennet Fink 47. St. Peter Poor 48. St. Peter Cornhil 49. St. Martin Outwich 50. St. Hellens 51. St. Ethelborough 52. St. Andrew Undershaft 53. Alhallows Lumbard Street 54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street 55. St. Dionis Back-Church 56. St. Katherine Cree-Church 57. St. James Dukes Place 58. St. Katherine Coleman 59. St. Olave Hart Street 60. St. Botolph Aldgate 61. St. Mary White Chapel 62. Trinity Minories 63. St. Bartholemew the Great 64. Alhallows Staining 65. Alhallows Barking 66. St. Mary Abchurch 67. St. Nicholas Accorn 68. St. Clement East Cheap 69. St. Bennet Grace-Church 70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch 71. St. Margaret Pattons 72. St. Andrew Hubbart 73. Dutchy Liberty 74. St. Clement Danes 75. Rolls Liberty 76. St. Dunstan in the West 77. White Fryers Precinct 78. St. Bridget 79. Bridewel Precinct 80. St. Anne Black-Fryers 81. St. Martin's Ludgate 82. St. Gregories | 083. St. Andrew Wardrobe 084. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf 085. St. Peter 086. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street 087. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby 088. St. Austine 089. St. Margaret Moses 090. Alhallows Bread-Street 091. St. Mildred Bread-Street 092. St. Nicholas Olave 093. St. Mary Mounthaw 094. St. Mary Somerset 095. St. Michael Queen Hith 096. Trinity 097. St. Mary Aldermary 098. St. Thomas Apostles 099. St. Michael Royal 100. St. James Garlick-Hith 101. St. Martin Vintry 102. St. Antholin's 103. St. John Baptist 104. St. Stephen Walbrook 105. St. Swithin 106. St. Mary Bothaw 107. Alhallows the Great 108. St. Faith's 109. St. Leonard East Cheap 110. St. Laurence Poultney 111. St. Martin Orgar's 112. Little Alhallows 113. St. Michael Crooked Lane 114. St. Magnus at the Bridg 115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street 116. St. George Botolph Lane 117. St. Botolph Billingsgate 118. St. Mary Hill 119. St. Dunstans in the East 120. Little St. Bartholemews 121. Tower Liberty 122. St. Katherines | |||
| LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map | |||||
07-14. African House, Throgmorton Street, B55 002-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7 07-18. Aldgate 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church 09-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little 07-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] 09-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church 05-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church 09-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane 009-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 05-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 011-1. Arundel House 05-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 06-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 006-3. Barnard's Inn 006-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 008-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 003-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 06-14. Bethlehem, New 06-15. Bishops Gate 006-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 006-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 010-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 07-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 07-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 006-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 009-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 06-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 08-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 009-6. Bridewell 009-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane 003-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 006-2. Brook House 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 006-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39 009-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 003-6. Charter House 007-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street 007-7. Christ Hospital 07-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 009-1. Clements Inn 006-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 009-3. Clifford's Inn 09-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 006-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 06-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 009-9. Cordwainers Hall 05-10. Cripple Gate 05-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 007-2. Cursitor's Office 11-17. Custome house 09-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21 006-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 05-16. Devonshire House, A73 009-9. Doctors Commons, C10 003-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 07-14. Drapers Hall, B57 06-14. Dutch Church 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street 08-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 006-4. Ely House 010-1. Essex House 06-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60 10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street 009-6. Fleet Bridg 008-5. Fleet [Prison] 07-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 07-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 07-14. French Church, B62 006-3. Furnival's Inn 006-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 09-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 05-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 03-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 007-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 005-1. Gray's Inn 07-15. Gresham Colledge 003-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 08-12. Grocers Hall, B53 07-11. Guild Hall 07-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 07-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 004-6. Hicks's Hall 007-5. Holborn Bridge 0—— [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] 0—— [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories] 009-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 08-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37 006-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 009-7. King's Printing House, C3 05-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 07-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 | 08-15. Leaden Hall Market 06-16. Leather-Sellers Hall 007-2. Lincoln's Inn 010-1. Lions Inne 11-14. London Bridg 005-8. London House, A57 009-7. Ludgate 09-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane) 08-11. Mercer's Chapel 08-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 009-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane 08-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market 0—— [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar">[ 09-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26 010-1. New Inn 002-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green 002-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6 007-6. Newgate 008-7. Newgate Market 10-10. Painters Stainers Hall 08-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54 06-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22 08-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62 007-7. Physicians College, B37 06-14. Pinner's Hall, B21 06-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6 06-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59 08-12. Poultry Compter, B83 009-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6 008-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75 007-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91 08-14. Royal Exchange 007-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41 09-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23 006-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93 009-6. Scotch Hall, C2 006-9. Scriveners Hall 009-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97 009-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street 008-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly 009-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7 008-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71 05-11. Sion College, A61 009-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72 10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33 005-6. Smithfield Penns 011-1. Somerset House 06-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church 05-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall 006-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church 10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] 08-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66 010-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church 006-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church 009-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church 09-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row 008-9. St. Austine's Church 005-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great 006-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little 08-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church 006-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital 08-13. St. Bennet Fink Church 08-15. St. Bennet Grace Church 010-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church 08-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church 009-6. St. Bridget's Church 006-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church 06-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church 11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] 05-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church 08-13. St. Christophers Church 010-1. St. Clement Danes Church 09-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church 009-3. St. Dunstan's Church 10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church 09-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church 06-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. of Little St. Hellens] 009-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's] 09-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane] 10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40 04-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church 009-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's] 07-16. St. Hellen's Church 07-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place 10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church 09-12. St. John Baptist Church 009-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north] 006-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane 08-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church | 08-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68 10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church 07-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church 10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church 007-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church 11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59 09-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church 06-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church 09-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church 09-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church 06-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old Jewry] 10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43 08-10. St. Mary le Bow Church 07-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony lane Market] 010-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church 010-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church 010-9. St. Mary Somerset Church 006-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane 08-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market] 08-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head Alley] 07-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church 009-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of Basing Lane] 09-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church 10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the Monument] 07-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining the west end of St. Olave Jewry] 008-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church 10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church 07-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner of Thread Needle Street] 10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church 008-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church 09-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church 08-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84 06-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church 08-14. St. Michael Cornhil 10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church 10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church 007-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street] 09-11. St. Michael Royal Church 007-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45 09-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church 009-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old Fish St. Hill) 09-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near middle of W. side] 09-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27 07-12. St. Olave Jewry Church 05-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church 08-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church 009-8. St. Paul's Cathedral 009-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5 11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London 07-10. St. Peter Cheap Church 06-14. St. Peter Poor Church 010-8. St. Peter's Church 08-14. St. Peter's Cornhil 007-6. St. Sephlcher's Church 06-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56 09-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church 10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street 09-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles 007-9. St. Vedast Church, B40 006-2. Staple Inn 008-7. Stationers Hall 006-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89 06-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11 09-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22 010-3. Temple Church 005-9. Thanet House, A58 006-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86 11-19. Tower, The 0—— Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, which see] 10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45 08-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70 009-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4 11-11. Vintonners Hall 08-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85 10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38 006-1. Warwick House 11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28 11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57 07-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43 06-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13 08-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53 10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, m15 07-10. Wood Street Compter, B46 09-12. Wool Church Market | |||