Memorials of old Cheshire

by Unknown

Bishop Creighton has told us that “the Civil War wrought greater havoc in Cheshire than in any other part of the country”; and the city of Chester suffered, we may say, more severely than any other place in the county. The city, as Lord Clarendon tells us, “was firm to the King, by the virtue of its inhabitants.” Not that quite all were of the same mind, for on August 8, 1642, a determined attempt was made to rouse the disaffected within the city and induce them to enlist themselves on the side of the Parliament. The vigorous action of the Mayor, Thomas Cowper, repressed the movement, and, in fact, gave rise to a vigorous counter-movement and to the raising and equipment of 300 men in the following October in addition to the ordinary trained band. A regular and continuous watch was appointed for each of the four city gates, and a levy or assessment made for its maintenance. A little more than three months later, on February 3, 1643, a further assessment of £500 was made and forthwith collected for the making of fortifications, and for defraying divers charges incident thereunto. When these loyal proceedings were reported to his Majesty, he thought it necessary to send to his faithful citizens at Chester an officer of skill and experience to direct their courage, and appointed Sir Nicholas Byron, a soldier of very good command, as Colonel General of Cheshire and Shropshire and Governor of Chester. He inspired great enthusiasm, and was able, with the encouragement of some gentlemen in North Wales, to raise a considerable body of horse and foot. He also directed the operations with such vigour that the outworks and entrenchments were completed in the summer, giving a further protection outside the walls from Pemberton’s Parlour right round to the river. Meanwhile Sir William Brereton, a gentleman of competent fortune in the county, had taken command of the Parliamentary forces, and established himself at Nantwich, which he fortified. From that place he made an attack upon Chester on July 20th, but was driven back with some loss, and proceeded to Flint, joining in the siege of that castle till its surrender upon honourable terms, owing to lack of provisions, was effected. Whilst this siege was proceeding the houses and buildings just outside the entrenchments were cleared away. The King thought it desirable to visit Chester in person; the city being of the greatest importance as the key to Ireland. Accordingly he despatched a courier from Stafford on September 18, 1643, and announced his intention; and five days later, attended by many of the nobility and gentry, approached the city and was received by the civic authorities and the citizens with all loyal devotion. The Mayor delivered the city sword to the King, who graciously returned it, when the Mayor, bare-headed, carried it before his Majesty to the Pentice, where the King was entertained and presented with £200 in gold, and £100 was given to the Prince of Wales. The King’s stay in the city was very brief, and after a few days he departed, having heard from Prince Rupert of the advantage gained by his forces before Worcester. Shortly afterwards Sir William Brereton occupied Hawarden Castle, and from there demanded the surrender of the city of Chester. As a matter of precaution the houses in the intervening suburb of Handbridge and the neighbourhood were destroyed by the authorities of Chester; and eventually Hawarden Castle, which had been invested by the King’s forces from Ireland, aided by reinforcements from Chester, capitulated on honourable terms. Meanwhile Beeston Castle, on a commanding position a few miles from the city, had been occupied by the Parliamentarians; but on December 13, 1643, it fell into the hands of the Royalists, who were led by Captain Thomas Sandford, “Captain of Firelocks.” A few weeks later the head of the surrendered garrison, Captain Steel, was condemned at Nantwich by his own party and shot as a traitor.

It will be readily understood that the citizens had to put forth supreme efforts to maintain their troops and defend their position. Accordingly we find various resolutions passed at their assemblies with these objects in view. At one of them the Mayor was desired to repair with all speed to Oxford to present a petition to his Majesty in answer to a gracious letter received by him. Payments were ordered and levies made for the reparation of the mud walls as outworks, and for the repair of the city walls and cleaning out of the city ditch, &c. In January 1644 one hundred pounds’ worth of the city plate was converted into coin to be used for the defence of the city, whilst a further assessment was levied for the perfecting of the works, and for provisioning the garrison. It was also ordered that £300 should be presented to the King and a like amount to the Prince of Wales. Lord Byron, nephew of the governor, was in command of the Royalist forces; and although he had gained a signal victory near Middlewich in December 1643, he failed a month later in his siege of Nantwich, and had to make good his retreat to Chester. Early in 1644 the Parliamentarians advanced close to the city and effected a lodgment at Christleton. They were forced to retire; but to prevent danger in the future the suburb of Great Boughton was burnt down by the citizens, so that the enemy might not harbour there.

In March 1644, Prince Maurice arrived in the city, and a form of loyal protestation was drawn up, which was to be submitted “to all the nobility, gentry, divines, citizens, and all other inhabitants of the city.” In the summer and autumn of this year the city was more closely surrounded by troops under the command first of Colonel Jones and subsequently of Sir William Brereton himself. Various communications passed between the besiegers and the besieged, in which the former were urged to submit, a course they strenuously refused to adopt. They were, however, in a very confused situation, having nothing but the city wall for their defence. The frequent assessments which had become necessary also caused a good deal of discontent, and it was found expedient to nominate a number of soldiers to collect them. On November 18th, Sir William Brereton demanded the surrender of the city “by trumpet,” and to this, after a second letter on the following day, an indignant refusal was rendered. The confusion occasioned by the war led to no Mayor being elected this year. A “faithful well-wisher,” by a letter tied to an arrow and shot into the city, endeavoured by insinuating methods to induce the citizens to betray their trust, but without success; though the constant levying of assessments showed strongly the state to which the garrison must have been reduced, and the heavy demands which were made on the loyalty and patriotism of the besieged.

In the early part of 1645, the correspondence between the leaders on both sides was constant. Sir William Brereton, however, seems to have been indisposed to treat with commissioners from the other side for a surrender, which apparently he would only accept on his own terms, which were set forth in a letter thrown over the walls. In March the advent of Prince Maurice and Prince Rupert into Cheshire caused some diversion of the besieging forces; and in May Sir William Brereton retreated from his position before Chester to Nantwich, and on the 22nd the city was relieved. This movement was no doubt due to the report that the King himself was advancing with a powerful army. He did not, however, at that time come further than Drayton, from which place he marched to Uttoxeter. The city, however, was not left without anxiety, as the outworks may be said to have been still in the possession of the enemy. In September intelligence was received that the King had left Hereford with his forces, and was on his way to Chester. Coming from Chirk Castle, he sent most of his horse over Holt or Farndon Bridge into Cheshire, and himself, with his guards and Lord Gerard and the rest of his troops, entered the city by the old Dee Bridge on September 23rd, and lodged that night at Sir Francis Gamul’s, in Lower Bridge Street. It is interesting to know that a portion of this house still remains, though its external appearance has been absolutely changed. It was on the following day that the battle of Rowton Heath, so disastrous to the King’s cause, took place. The defeat was in great measure due to misunderstandings, and the fact that the soldiers of the garrison did not know the situation in which Sir Marmaduke Langdale, in command of the Royalist cavalry, was placed. The result of this was that Sir Marmaduke was surrounded and overpowered, and forced to retire towards Chester. Some of his horse were scattered over the country, crossing the river at Boughton Ford, or making for Holt Bridge, whilst those who accompanied him became entangled in the narrow lanes leading to the city, and there was a general rout. The King, attended by Sir Francis Gamul and Alderman Cowper, had the mortification of witnessing the disaster from the leads of the Phœnix Tower, at the north-east angle of the city walls. In this battle many gentlemen and officers of distinction lost their lives, or were taken prisoners; and it is computed that not less than 600 men were killed on both sides, and amongst the slain was Bernard Stuart, the young, gallant Earl of Lichfield, whilst Sir Philip Musgrave was taken prisoner. On the following day the King, accompanied by Sir Francis Gamul, Captain Thropp, and others, and with 500 horse, marched over Dee Bridge into Wales, and so to Denbigh Castle. Before his departure he gave orders to Lord Byron and his commissioners, “if after ten days they saw no prospect of relief to treat for their own preservation.” It will be seen from this that he judged that the city was in great danger, and that it could hardly be expected to hold out much longer.

Sir Francis Gamul and his companions remained with the King for a couple of days, took a sad and final farewell of their Sovereign, and then returned to Chester. They found the city in an even more distressed condition, for the enemy had again forced the works at Boughton, and were close up to the walls, and in possession of the part of the town just outside the Eastgate. For at least a week the daily onslaught of the besieging forces was of the most determined character. They planted their cannon at close quarters, and effected a breach in the walls near the Newgate, and in many parts destroyed the battlements. At night time the damage was repaired as far as was possible. The several assaults of the enemy were met with a stout and stubborn resistance. On October 7th, having surrounded the city with their cavalry, a violent and determined attack was made upon the walls in many parts, which were as resolutely defended. Great courage and determination were exhibited on both sides, and when the assailants in some places gained the top of the walls they were beaten off, thrown down and killed, and the scaling-ladders which they had used were taken possession of. So powerful had this resistance proved to be, that the besiegers gave up their intention of storming the city, and changed their plan into that of a close blockade, trusting to subdue by famine those whom they were unable to conquer by force.

The position of the city was not improved by the fact that Beeston Castle, after a siege lasting eighteen months, and after great privations suffered by the garrison, at this time had to capitulate to the Parliamentarians. The Governor secured very honourable conditions, he and his men being allowed to march out with horses and arms and with colours flying, a convoy being provided to guard them to Flint Castle. The besieged in Chester had now a very trying time. Their opponents had constructed a floating bridge over the river at Boughton which proved a considerable annoyance to them, whilst affording much help to those who had contrived it. An ineffectual attempt to burn it down was made by turning adrift at high tide two boats filled with combustibles, but though the trains caught fire they were speedily extinguished. A brisk sally out of the city with 500 horse and 200 foot also met with no success. Sir William Brereton again proposed a surrender, but Lord Byron and the commissioners insisted upon terms which he felt he could not grant.

On December 10th, orders were sent by Parliament for the Lancashire forces under Colonel Booth to join Sir William Brereton, and in a few days they arrived, to the consternation of those within the city, which was now quite encompassed, and a scarcity of provisions was soon occasioned. Sir William Brereton, in January 1646, sent again and again a summons to the besieged to surrender, but this was refused nine times, although they had to feed on horses, dogs, and cats, and boiled wheat, as the hope was entertained that the King might still be able to come to their relief. It was only when all chance of this had vanished that a treaty was agreed upon, and a large number of commissioners on each side were appointed to draw up the terms of it. Accordingly “Articles of Surrender,” seventeen in number, were devised and agreed to, and signed on February 3, 1646. It is a singular coincidence that this day happened to be, in former times, the Feast of St. Werburgh, who might be called the patron saint of the city. These Articles of Surrender are very interesting, and may be accounted very generous. In them “liberty to march out of the city, castle, and fort with all their apparel whatsoever and no other” was granted to all, the amount of money which each should carry being fixed, and ranging from forty pounds in money and twenty pounds in plate for Lord and Lady Byron to twenty shillings for lieutenants, cornets, ensigns, and other inferior officers in commission; arrangements were made for the protection of women and prisoners and for the prevention of pillage and plunder; no church within the city, or evidence or writing belonging to the same, was to be defaced; those who marched out of the town had liberty to march to Conway, and facilities were granted to them for this purpose; “the friends of the Earls of Derby and Lichfield, or any of those whose dead bodies were not yet interred in the city, had two months’ time given them to fetch them from thence whither they pleased, provided they came attended by not more than twenty horse”; and hostages were to be given for the due performance of the said Articles.

Thus, after a sturdy resistance of three years and a half, the city was taken, after proving its unflinching loyalty to the King and his cause. In this respect Chester stands out in a remarkable manner, and may be said to vie with Oxford in its devotion to Charles I. The damage inflicted on it was immense, and a very moderate calculation has estimated it at £200,000. Randle Holme has given an interesting description of the damage done, mentioning many specific instances, and ending with this: “This may be an advertisement to us that God’s mercy is yet to be found, since he hath left so many streets, lanes, and churches unmolested. God grant us faith, patience, and true repentance and amendment, that a worse danger befall us not. Amen.” The same writer, alluding to the attack on September 29, 1645, says: “By this time our women are all on fire, striving through a gallant emulation to out-do our men, and will make good our yielding walls or lose their lives to show they dare attempt it. The work goes forward, and they, like so many Amazons, do outface death, and dare danger though it lurks in every basket; seven are shot and three slain, yet they scorn to leave their matchless undertaking, and thus they continued for ten days’ space, possessing the beholders that they are immaculate!” It will be seen from this contemporary description that the annals of the period, if fully chronicled, would afford a wonderful story of bravery and endurance and patience, and would add lustre to the fame of the ancient city of Chester. Even this imperfect sketch may not be out of place, but may lead us to admire the chivalry and loyalty and courage of those brave defenders of our walls in bygone days.

Sir William Brereton’s forces were not very particular as to the observance of the treaty. The sword and mace were indeed restored to the city, but much injury was done to the Cathedral, where the choir was defaced, the organ damaged, the stained-glass windows broken, and the font demolished. The High Cross was also taken down, and the fonts taken out of several of the parish churches, in which also many of the ancient monuments were destroyed. As a result, very few of the latter of an early date are found now in Chester. The Gamul and Oldfield monuments in the Church of St. Mary on the Hill were preserved by a special agreement with Sir William Brereton. The Church of St. John suffered much, as it was so long in the possession of the enemy, being without the city walls. No doubt in other respects the terms of the “Articles of Surrender” were violated.

The following fuller descriptions of the visit of the King will not be out of place as an appendix to this paper. I am indebted for them to the Rev. Canon Morris, D.D., F.S.A., who had supplied them for another purpose.