Besides that which is owing to innumerable contributors to discussions which have extended over many years and exercised a variety of languages, I have to acknowledge a very special debt of gratitude to Mr. H. V. Reade, C.B., for his helpful suggestions and careful revision; to Captain Farrar, D.S.O., for constant encouragement and a characteristically kindly criticism; to Mr. Oscar Eckenstein, for having most generously placed at my disposal the notes of much accumulated experience and illuminating inductive theory, and for having provided me with information and reminder in several of the less-known branches of mountaineering; and to Mr. Sydney Spencer, Mr. Charles Mead, and Professor Norman Collie, F.R.S., for a group of illustrations, which may be found to lighten the practical detail of the text and serve as reminders of the beauty, the mystery, and the strangeness of the mountain world into which—safely and superficially or masterfully and understandingly, according to the degree of our preparation—the study of mountain craft purposes to enable us to penetrate.
June 1914
Six years ago these papers were sent in for publication. For my own share in them I made the decision, then, with some reluctance. In mountaineering there is always something new to learn, and they might all too soon need correction or amplification.
But the chance of battle which delayed their appearance has, in the event, confirmed the resolution. My colleagues have brought their regional contributions up to date: I have added the substance of the notes jotted down during my last climbs in July 1914; and I can now let the opinions go with much less hesitation, since from the annual demonstration of their deficiencies by their most obstinate critic they must, in future, be exempt.
G. W. Y.
June 1920
CONTENTS
| CHAP. | PAGE | |
|---|---|---|
| [I.] | Management and Leadership | [1] |
| By the Editor | ||
| Management in anticipation—physical well-being—food—thirst—smoking—ailments—bathing—young folk—preventable humours—boredom—over-excitement. Leadership in action—the collective confidence—keeping touch—temper—abnormal moods—reaction—disappointment—over-confidence—hysteria—vertigo—the effect of height. Social composition of the party. Walking manners—some notes on hill-walking. Choice of district. Incidental duties—hut usages—consideration—some night notes—a last task. Weather—clouds—wind—signs in general—habit of the season—persistence. Training—the framework—the organs—will and nerves—nerve—height and reach. Pace—adjustment of time—benightment—weight handicaps—continuous going—combination-halts—the maximum rhythm. | ||
| [II.] | Equipment for the Alps | [80] |
| By J. P. Farrar | ||
| Equipment—boots—clothes—some alternatives (G. W. Y.)—costume for women (Miss Bronwen Jones). Outfit—sack—axe—rope—knots—necessaries—bivouac—tent, etc. | ||
| [III.] | Guided and Guideless Mountaineering | [101] |
| By the Editor | ||
| Old-time errors—the guide of the chronicles—the guide as he is—the amateur as he may be—the composite mountaineer—the guide as mountaineer—the amateur as mountaineer—the question for the leader—the social consideration—the technical compensation—examples—the expert—the tourist—the beginner—the moderate mountaineer—summary—a supreme example. Management of guides—guide nature—the right footing—before the ascent—on the mountain—fine shades—the terms of the association—the rare crisis—the reward. | ||
| [IV.] | Rock Climbing | [138] |
| By the Editor | ||
| A theory of the development—balance climbing—the individual standard—solitary climbing—initial practice—the use of the foot—hard soles—soft soles—foothold—anticipation—the ankle—the knee—the hand—cling holds—push and press holds—in cracks—on slabs—chimney climbing—rib riding—wet rock—glazed rock—summary. Unsound rock—semi-detached—detached—moraine and scree. Unusual rock—in quarries—along sea cliffs—on freaks. Climbing down—positions—facing outward—facing sideways—facing inward—down chimneys or cracks—the rope in continuous descent—the doubled rope—brakes—springing the rope—the long rope. Pegs and aids. The axe on rocks—carriage—the extra hand—the Manx leg. | ||
| [V.] | Climbing in Combination | [209] |
| By the Editor | ||
| Collective rhythm—imitation—the rope while moving together—to the man in front—from the man behind—while moving singly—following and leading—stances—with belays—without belays—holding the rope—the order on the rope—on ascents and descents—on traverses—the order of merit—the order with beginners—the order of moving—the duties of first man—of second man—backing up metaphysically—backing up physically—of third man—more about the rope during climbing—with stones—during halts—coiling—suitable lengths—funicula. | ||
| [ VI.] | Corrective Method | [256] |
| By the Editor | ||
| Human fallibility—warning—easing—checking on traverses—the case of the end man—the measure of courage—the second man’s action—after a fall—accidents. Mountain perversity—falling stones—snow slides—ice fragments—evil weather. | ||
| [VII.] | Ice and Snow Craft | [279] |
| By the Editor | ||
| The age for glaciers. Ice craft—the nature of ice—ice-claws—cutting steps—using steps—the rope on ice—glacier work—snow-covered glacier. Snow craft—some characteristics and counter-moves—snow travail—snow slopes—the rope and axe—bergschrund and bridge—cornices—snow in couloirs—snow at home—confusing weather—the sense of direction. Glissading—on ice—positions—arrests. On snow—positions—steering—jumping—brakes—sitting—stone-tests—the rope—some variations—alternate glissading—face inward—plunging-on claws. On other grounds—on scree—in winter gullies—on grass and heather. | ||
| [VIII.] | Reconnoitring | [370] |
| By the Editor | ||
| Things seen—snow surface condition—angle on snow—snow cornices—wind and snow signs—ice—couloirs—rock—faces—ridges—slabs—rocks in Britain. The Half-seen. The Unseen. | ||
| [IX.] | Mountaineering on Ski | [397] |
| By Arnold Lunn | ||
| Technique—equipment. The alpine calendar. Snow craft. Winter snow—powder snow—the effect of wind on powder snow—the effect of sun on powder snow—summary of winter snow. Spring snow. The effect of Föhn and thaw—Föhn in winter—Föhn in spring. Summer snow. Snow avalanches. Classification of avalanches. Summer snow avalanches. Tactics on avalanche ground. The High Alps in winter—weather conditions—the approaches to the High Alps—snow conditions in the High Alps—rock ridges and ice slopes. Glaciers in winter—ski-ing on a rope. The High Alps in spring—March—April—May—June. The spring time-table. Summer and autumn ski-ing. Summer ski. | ||
| [ X.] | Mountain Photography | [471] |
| By Sydney Spencer | ||
| Camera and apparatus—the choice of subject—colour photography—stereoscopic photography. | ||
| [ XI.] | Mountaineering in Tropical Countries | [479] |
| By A. F. R. Wollaston | ||
| Health and remedies. Equipment—food—canteen—clothing—furniture—tents. Management—loads and packing—trade goods, natives, etc.—carriers—camps, and things in general. | ||
| [XII.] | Mountaineering in the Arctic (Spitsbergen) | [497] |
| By Sir W. Martin Conway | ||
| Modes of access—plans of campaign—from the coast—into the interior—exceptional phenomena—summary, cost, etc. | ||
| [XIII.] | The Caucasus | [506] |
| By Harold Raeburn | ||
| Topography—literature—routes of access—modes of travel—centres—equipment—organization—maps—expense. | ||
| [XIV.] | The Mountains of Corsica | [517] |
| By George Finch | ||
| Season—equipment—centres, access, and topography—nature of the climbing. | ||
| [ XV.] | The Himalaya | [522] |
| By T. G. Longstaff | ||
| General considerations—configuration—conditions—conduct of the campaign—season. Chief districts—Eastern Himalaya—Sikkim—Nepal—Kumaon and Garhwal—Tehri Garhwal—Simla Hill States—Kashmir and Karakoram—Hindu Khush, etc. Personal matters—expense—outfit—food—the high camp outfit—clothing—instruments. | ||
| [XVI.] | The Mountains of Norway | [536] |
| By W. Cecil Slingsby | ||
| Guide-books and literature—season—routes of access, travel, etc.—expense—equipment—guides—topography—local conditions. | ||
| [XVII.] | The Southern Alps of New Zealand | [548] |
| By Malcolm Ross | ||
| Routes of access—local conditions, guides, etc.—topography—flora and fauna—glaciers. | ||
| [XVIII.] | The Pyrenees | [556] |
| By Claude Elliott | ||
| Topography—centres—guides—maps—huts and inns—equipment—expense—literature. | ||
| [XIX.] | The Rocky Mountains | [572] |
| By A. L. Mumm | ||
| Topography—the C.P.R. district—the Selkirks—guides and equipment—the Northern Selkirks—the Purcell range—some minor ranges—the main chain from Laggan to Jasper—the groups east of the main chain—the main chain north of the G.T.P.—modes of travel—outfit—season—the annual camps—access, cost, etc. | ||
| [Index] | [593] | |