Rucksack.
A good size is 21 inches wide and 21 inches deep, the bottom and side walls 4 inches wide, as this gives a flatter sack. Two outside pockets with flap and button—the carrying straps of woollen webbing 1½ inch wide—the whole made of waterproof sailcloth with a flap. A good pattern is supplied by Alpine outfitters such as Fritsch & Co. of Zurich, who issue elaborate catalogues of alpine equipment. The Continental dealers supply a very light frame which goes between the back and the sack, thus preventing the back getting hot. The best I know is the “Touristenfreund Rucksackstütze,” No. 20, 3½ marks, supplied by Fritsch. The Norwegians make a novel kind of sack, the weight of which is carried partly by the hips.
Ice-axe.
The best ice-axes I know are made by Schenk in Grindelwald (difficult to get delivery). The same pattern is also made by Fritz Jörg, Zweilütschinen, near Interlaken, from whom I have had several good axes. It is necessary, however, to specify the pattern, as he makes several. Sizes are as follows:
| Length of adze-side of head from centre of handle | 5” (12 cms.) |
| Length of pick-side of head from centre of handle | 7” (18 cms.) |
| Width of blade of adze | 2½” (6 cms.) |
| Depth of socket of head (to give weight) | 2” (5 cms.) |
| Length of side irons of head from lower edge of socket | 7” to 8” (about 20 cms.) |
| Side Irons should be fastened to the stock by 3 copper rivets, not screws.[5] | |
| Length of ferrule of axe handle | 2½” (6 cms.) |
| Length of point of axe handle | 2” (5 cms.) |
| The point must not be sharp, and if longer than stated, may tear one’s clothes when cutting. The point and ferrule made in one piece are very objectionable, as they allow the point no play if caught. | |
| Length of stock or handle, including point | 39” (1 m.) |
| This is a good average length for general purposes. Longer axes offer no advantages, and are awkward. I use a 36-inch axe, which is very handy, but it is short for cutting downhill. | |
| Diameter of handle immediately under socket of axehead | 1⅛” by 1⅜”, say 30 by 35 mm. |
| Diameter of handle immediately above ferrule | 11⁄16” by 15⁄16”, say 27 by 33 mm. |
| These sizes give strength enough. If exceeded, they fill the grasp of an ordinary hand so that, as is often needed, nothing else can be gripped. If the lower end is thinner it will cramp the hand when cutting. The axe should balance at about 9 inches from the top. | |
An axe as described weighs 3 lb., and will be equal to any work usually met with on a mountain expedition. If the balance and the curves of the head come out well, it will cut ice clean and without any recoiling jar to the arms. Notches on the underside of the head of the axe, often seen in shop axes, are very objectionable.
Mr. Eckenstein has designed an ice axe differing radically from the normal type, to be used in conjunction with his crampons. It is 34 inches long over all, and has a much smaller head. The few who have used it in conjunction with the special crampons claim for the combination advantages in difficult ice. The subject has been treated by Dr. J. Jacot Guillarmod in an elaborate paper with scale drawings and many sketches in the Jahrbuch des S. A. C., vol. xlv. pp. 344-53, and undoubtedly deserves the closest attention.[6]
This axe, and crampons, are made by A. Hupfauf, Einsiedeln, Switzerland.
