MAKING THE YOKE PATTERN.
Cutting out the Pattern.
For the collar pattern, the neck length was taken, as for the yoke pattern, and an oblong piece of paper cut out, this length one way and half of it the other. (See Fig. 1). This was folded in half to form a square, and creased across the middle, as in the diagram. One of the two open corners was folded over to the crease, and the triangular pieces thus formed were cut off, as in Fig. 3. A curved line was next marked, connecting one end of the slanting edge, A, with the bottom end, C, of the fold. By measuring the length of the slanting edge A, B, along the fold, a new point D was found, and a curve was made parallel to the first curve, connecting B and D (See Fig. 4). The double paper was cut along the curves, and thus the pattern of half the collar was obtained.
MAKING THE COLLAR PATTERN.
It was found that the collar for the frock fitted better when made in two parts and in double material. Thus, in cutting out the cloth, four pieces, the size and shape of the pattern, were required.
The length required for the skirt was found by fitting on the yoke pattern, and then measuring from the middle of the front straight down, adding two or three inches for the hem.
The frock in the illustration was made from double width serge, and it was found practicable to get the skirt from one-and-a-half widths, the other half serving for the yoke. The pair of sleeves came out of a full width. This planning and arranging involved no end of simple but interesting calculation, and the reality of it all made a strong appeal to the girls.
One point of supreme importance was most carefully impressed—that was—“the way of the cloth”; certainly, if this goes wrong, the garment is ruined, and just as certainly it is a thing that will never be mastered “theoretically”—it must be learnt by actually cutting out of material.