Waxing, Tying, Bagging
As soon as the grafts are set, cover the entire wound with grafting wax, being careful to cover the top of the stub well and the sides as far down as the bark is split, and the upper end of the scion. Then place a paper sack over the stub to prevent evaporation and leave this on until the scions start into growth. We do not use any tying material on large limbs because the bark is thick enough to hold the graft in place. However, on smaller trees it will be important to wrap the grafts well.
Grafting Wax
The best grafting wax we have found is composed of the following:
Four pounds resin, one pound beeswax, one-half pint linseed oil and one tablespoon of lampblack. Melt all together and apply with a paint brush, being careful not to have the wax too hot.
After Care
After new growth starts watch it closely every week or ten days and keep all suckers removed until the scion starts into growth. Wherever grafts fail to start the suckers may be left to grow for budding later.
Budding Large Trees
Cut back early the same as for grafting, cover all cuts with grafting wax, let all sprouts grow until time to bud, which is usually August 1 to September 1. Thin out the small, weaker sprouts and bud three or four of the largest ones, setting the bud four to six inches from where the sprout comes out of the stub. Use the patch bud, wrap carefully with waxed cloth, using muslin dipped in melted beeswax, the strips of cloth three-sixteenths to one-fourth inch wide. The following spring, about March 1, cut the sprouts back to about three inches above the bud, remove all other sprouts when new growth starts and keep all suckers removed.
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