We use no wax. We throw a wrap over the bud, shoulders even though it may press the petiole forward against the bud. If the center of the bud pulls out it will not grow although an adventitious bud may eventually start. Budding seems about equally successful any time that the bark slips freely. On walnuts this is all summer if not too dry.
Early-placed buds may make several feet growth before fall if sufficient moisture is available. On walnuts there are always dormant buds. We have used storage wood but now just cut it fresh. We have not tried draining patch-bud or grafts. Although we have not tried it we think cherries and other trees inclined to drown the buds might be better handled in this manner. Climate is a factor in the type of propagation advisable. One very fine grower using buds in California could propagate only by grafts when he moved to Western Oregon.
The kernel of my walnut budding experience may well be summarized in one word—drainage.
Questions asked Mr. Stoke after his demonstration of grafting and budding.
[See his paper in 1946 Report, pp. 99-103.—Ed.]
Member: "How do you keep your scions?"
Stoke: "I prefer 'orange' cold storage for scionwood. This is just above freezing. Walnuts should be in full leaf before spring budding."
McDaniel: "What percentage of chestnuts did well with the 'plate' method of budding?"
Stoke: "I don't use it with chestnuts for spring budding, but sometimes for summer budding. It will work well on any variety of Persian walnut, heartnut and black walnut. Place buds on the north and northeast side of tree to prevent sun injury."
Question: "Do you find any difference in using buds from an eight or ten year old tree as against a younger tree?"
Stoke: "No, not so long as it is healthy. For spring budding I don't care to have any trees too vigorous. Cut tops off young trees three to five days after budding, and force the buds into growth. If you delay too long the bud will die. I wouldn't try to bud trees unless bark is slipping."