| CHAPTER I. | |
| PAGE | |
| My host—A Russian servant—The Crimean war—Howthe Russian soldiers were beaten—My father theTzar—I would sooner be hanged!—The civilizedway of eating a dinner—Knives and forks of Circassianmanufacture—The Caimacan's opinion of knivesand forks—My host's wife—His mother—YourQueen likes riding—An Armenian lady inquiringabout balls—The barracks—The appearance of Arabkir—Theprison—The inmates—The troops—Anation of soldiers—If Allah wills it—Capital required | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| The Mohammedan school—The Governor—The Schoolmaster—Hisimpertinence—An Armenian song—TheRussians at Tiflis—Are the Russians so verydegraded?—The Hodja, or Schoolmaster—He is putin prison—The fanatics amongst the Turks—Aschool required for Hodjas—Qualified teacherswanted—Do the Turks insult your religion?—Malattia—Across tied to the tail of a dog—We wantnewspapers—Even they contradict each other—Thestreets are slippery—The precipices—Shephe—TheKurds—Few Zaptiehs in the province—Hara Bazar—Thevillage of Ashoot—Arab horses—Deserters—TheUsebashe—God is evidently on our side | [11] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Radford—His health—The farmer's house—The high elevation—Mybrother will look down the precipices—TheFrat—The scenery—A caravan—How to passit—The weather—Turks in Egin—A coracle—Beautifulfish—Sick soldiers—Twenty-four hours withoutfood—Egin—The Caimacan—The Cadi—His story—Daniel—Samson—Hisriches, his 10,000 wives, allof them fat and lovely—His treasure-chests—Thelovely daughters of the mountaineers—The officersdied; the Pachas died; and last of all, Samson died—Thefate of the Russians | [22] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| The Armenian church—The devotees—The ladies—Thepriest—His toilet—Little boys—A song in honour ofthe Queen of England—These Armenians are verydirty—A hymn sung in English—The inhabitants ofEgin—Turkish doctors—A post mortem examination—Priceof meat—Russian agents—The massacres inBulgaria—The Hasta Dagh mountain—The descentof the glacier—I never thought as how a horse couldskate, sir, before! | [32] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Hasta Khan—The Kurds—Their summer depredations—OurSultan ought to be Padishah in his own dominions—TheEnglish Consul—A story about theKurds—The Delsin—Arresting the major—Themajor's dinner with the chief—Acknowledge thePadishah—A sore back—The mule which is offeredin exchange—The pack-saddle—The Euphrates—Coalin the neighbourhood—Kemach—The Caimacan—Djerrid—ANational Guard—A miniatureGibraltar—Turkoman horses—Numerous wells—Oneof the faithful | [41] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Kemach—Its population—Barley is very cheap—AnEnglish traveller—Conversation about the impendingwar—If we beat Russia, will England permit usto take back the Caucasus?—Yakoob Khan—ThePoles to be freed—Germany to have the Baltic Provinces—Whatabout the Crimea?—We ought tocripple Russia—The Floggers of Women—Crossingthe Euphrates—Radford is poorly—Erzingan—Theintendant of Issek Pacha—Pretty Armenian women—Anintelligent Turk—Iron, silver, gold—Coal—Lead-minesworked by the Kurds—The peasantryand coal—The Government and the mines—A relationof the Pacha of Sivas—The old doctor—Firinga patient for gout | [50] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Erzingan—The Mutasarraf Pacha—Widdin—Russianofficial documents—Names of high functionaries—GeneralIgnatieff—Hindostan—The Kurds will beexcited to massacre the Armenians—The probablefinal result of the war—If Turkey were to joinRussia—The boot manufactory—The shoemakersbeing drilled—The gaol—Coiners—A jealous womanin prison—The unfortunate shopkeeper | [59] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Russia's conduct in Servia—The Hodja—We have a greatmany troops—If the Circassians will rise—ThePacha—Raw cotton—The Mohammedan school—TheHodja's sum—Three jealous husbands—The mosque—IssekPacha—A comparison between MohammedanImaums and Christian priests—Provisions—Theold doctor—The road to Erzeroum—Want of sport—Soldiersfrost-bitten | [68] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Climbing the mountains—It is bitterly cold—Delan—Thesoldiers—Kargan—A bridge over the Euphrates—Mohallata—OurPadishah is poor now—The Captainof the Zaptiehs—He wishes to be married—Promotionwanted—The Erzingan track meets theTrebizond road—Bashi Bazouks—The Kara Su—Zaptiehs—Erzeroum—Thefortifications of Erzeroum—IsmailPacha's residence—A pacific speechmade by Lord Derby—A decoration sent by theTzar to the Armenian Bishop of Erzeroum—An Armeniandemonstration—Caravan trade—Timbaki—Dutiesincreased—The price of Timbaki—The Kurds—Russianagents—A massacre of the Christians tobe brought about by Russian agents | [76] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| The Pacha's interpreter—The Russian Consul—The telegram—Unennemi acharné of Russia—Mr. Zohrab—TheRussian Government encourages photography—Thepaternal Government—Spies—Pregnant womenmassacred—How to frighten the mountaineers—Goand complain to the Kralli of the English.—Ask herto send you an oculist—A blood-stained placard—Aproof of Russian civilization—Two Circassian chiefs—Theirstatement—The value of the Caucasus—AMemoir drawn up by the Emperor Nicholas forthe instruction of the present Emperor Alexander—Ourinheritance is the East—The Circassians mustbe freed | [84] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| The European society in Erzeroum—The Russian Consulis an energetic man—How to depopulate a country—Russianpassports—Consul Taylor—The intriguesof the Russian Consul—The Armenian upper classes—Howcorrupt they are—The soldiers in Erzeroum—Discontent—Métallique—TheMilitary Hospitals—Recruitsfrom the South—The head surgeon—Thewards—A valuable medicine—A bad habit—Wastingammunition | [94] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| A conversation with the Pacha—The English Parliamentopened—What will they say about Turkey?—Canthe people at your Embassy speak Turkish?—TheFrench are brave soldiers—The fortifications—Theroads—The water supply—The posterns—Importantmilitary positions—A dinner with our Consul—Herelates a story—A Kurdish robber—The Colonel—Hisyoung wife—How the Kurd wished to revengehimself—Many of the Kurds are in Russian pay | [104] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| The weather—The number of troops in the town—Woodis very dear—Tezek—The shape of the town—Tradewith Persia—Ismail Pacha's head servant—Havethe Russians arrived?—No, Effendi, but the Pachahas hanged himself! that is all—The Pacha's wives—Hewas gay and handsome—The Consul's dragoman—Anattack of dysentery—Starting for Van—Major-GeneralMacintosh—His opinion aboutthe Kurds—The Bazaar at Van—Fezzee Pacha—Kiepert'smap—Erzeroum is very weak—FezzeePacha's opinion about the impending war—Thecurious Caves | [114] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| The Turkish cemetery—Entering the cavern—The narrowpassage—A branch tunnel—A candle went out—Theball of string—The Garden of Eden—The serpent—Adinner with the Engineer-general—Mashallah—Theevil eye—A whole nation of Hodjas—YouEnglish are a marvellous nation—Some of our Pachascannot write—This is a miracle—Start for Van—Thepostman—A caravan from Persia—The wives of thePersian merchant—How to balance a fat wife—Herteff—Myhost's wife—Stealing sugar | [124] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The Kurd—His bonnet—Mohammed is ill—Radforddoctors him—The mustard plaster—The plaster iscold—Where has the Frank put the flames?—Anold frost-bite—The two merchants—Bayazid—ATurkish lieutenant—A very dirty Christian—Crossingthe Araxes—Kupri Kui—Yusueri—Deli Baba—Earthenwarejars—How they are made—When thewinter is over—Procrastination | [134] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Low hills—Deep snow—The effect of the sun's rays—Nearlyblind—Daha—The road to Bayazid blocked—Thedaughter of my host—Her costume—Soap andwater—A surprise—She is very dirty—If she werewell washed—Turkish merchants—Buying thedaughters—A course of Turkish baths—An additionto the Seraglio—Rich men always get pretty wives—TheKurd's sons—The Imaum of the village—Myhost's tooth—It aches—I have heard of your greatskill—Cure my tooth—A mustard plaster a remedyfor toothache—A hakim for the stomach—Haveit out—Champagne nippers—My tooth is betteralready | [142] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Clearing the way—Leaving Daha—My father was wellcleaned last night—The wonderful medicine—Chargingthe snow-drifts—Turkoman steeds—ThePersians—The lieutenant—Zedhane—Molla Suleiman—ToprakKale—A sanguinary drama—TheCaimacan—The rivals—An Armenian peasant—Themarriage ceremony—The Circassian Governor—TheKurd's mother—Revenge—His father's bones—TheCircassian's wives—The Governor in bed—The fight—Thefeud between the Kurds and Circassians—Camelsin the water—The ice has broken | [151] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Armenian lads—Riding calves—Buffaloes—A fair price fora girl—Our daughters are our maid-servants—AEuropean wife—A useless incumbrance—A Dervish—Thelieutenant roars at him—Kara Kelise—KaizeKuy—The streams in Anatolia—A source of annoyance—Persianwomen—A Persian village—Thehouses—Rugs manufactured by the inhabitants—Erivan—TheRussian invasion of Persia—Once aRussian always a Russian—The Murad river—Diyadin—Thegarrison—Rumours of peace—Persia—Ararat—Theview—Ophthalmia—Bayazid—ThePacha's residence—The Russian authorities in Daghestan—Fourhundred people killed—Women andchildren shot down and beaten to death—Major-GeneralMacintosh—His opinion about Bayazid—Theimportance of this town from a military point ofview—Syria—Aleppo—Diarbekir—Van—The barracks—MahmoudPacha—His descendants—Theirony of fate—A Hungarian doctor—MahmoudPacha, the son of Issek Pacha, lies here | [160] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| A spy—The news from Erivan—The border line—Howhe passed the frontier—The Mollahs—A war of exterminationpreached by them—A Turkish newspaper—Turksin Asia—Christians in Europe—The Conference—AConference in St. Petersburg—The EuropeanPowers dislike Russia—General Ignatieff a judgeinstead of a prisoner—The hour for the eveningprayer—A Turkish officer on prayer—His opinionabout European Bishops—They eat mutton everyday—A Turkish Captain | [171] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| A Yezeed (devil-worshippers) village—The Usebashe—Theworshippers of Old Scratch—The Yezeed's religion—TheSpirit of good—The spirit of evil—Therites—The Grand Vizier of Allah—The unmarriedpriest—The wives and daughters in their congregation—Ahigh honour—Women honoured by theattentions of a priest—Great excitement at thepriests' arrival—Mr. Layard—His admirable work—KeliseKandy—My host—His house—They wantto conquer the Shah—Nadir Shah—He once conqueredyou English in Hindostan—The Tzar ofAmerica—You pay Shere Ali a large sum of money—Heis a clever fellow | [178] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Dinner—The Persian's wife is poorly—The wonderfulwet paper—The samovar—The harem—Be notalarmed—She is in a delicate state of health—Jaundice—Shefeels better already—No medicine foryour complaint—A mustard plaster would be useless—Sonsof the devil—My lord's baksheesh—Commotionamongst the servants | [188] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Villages—Arab Dize—Shadili—Shalendili—Karenee—Kurds—Radfordwishes to bleed the inhabitants—Persianmen with their beards dyed red—Every partof a woman is false—These Persians are a nation ofwomen—The old fire-worshipper's superstition—Gardens—Irrigation—Soldiers—Theflint fire-locks—Theyare unclean ones, these Persians—The little dogsdo some things well—a Persian will kiss you on onecheek, and will stab you behind your back | [196] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| No signs of Khoi—At last we arrive—The Turkish Consul—Russianintrigues—Persian soldiers have attacked aTurkish village—Kashka Beulah—A Turkish Usebasheand seven men brought prisoners to Khoi—TheAmbassador at Teheran—Retaliation—The exchangeof prisoners—The origin of the disturbance—TheShah's uncle—Russian agents in Teheran—Kurdishgirls make the best wives—They do not care aboutfine clothes—How to make use of your mother-in-law—Thewomen in your country—A fortune on dress—Mylast wife cost ten liras—Persian women—ThePersians are very cruel—Odd customs—The fortificationsof Khoi—Soldiers gambling | [204] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| The bazaar—Recumbent Persians—Carpets—Cutlery—Russiancalicoes—The houses in Khoi—The schools—Aclass of lads—The Pedlar—The schoolmasterchastises him—Pillaff—Bonbons—Persian ladies likesweetmeats—Articles of native manufacture—Themosque—The Russian officials in Erivan—We leaveKhoi—Kotoor Boghaz—The Turkish captain whowas taken prisoner by the Persians—His explanationof the affair—The Russians are our fathers—Thedefile—Magnificent positions for defence—A mineralspring—The change of temperature | [212] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Kotoor—The Quarantine station—The medical officer incharge—The Governor of Kotoor—A Russian disguisedas a Persian—Mineral wealth—The Russianswould like this territory—A stepping-stone to Bagdadand Mosul—A loyal Kurd—Aleshkert—Thepeople there take the strongest side—MoullahHassan—Kurdish merchants—The postman—Hismule in the water—My new yellow trousers—Thesaddle-bags in the river—Nestorian villages—Howto buy a wife—Exchange and barter—A horseand two sheep—Van—The Pacha—The barracks—Thegarrison—Bitlis | [221] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| The artillery at practice—The horses—The Commandant—TheMilitary School at Constantinople—The citadel—Typhus—Theswamp—The sanitary state ofthe city—The lake—Natron—A substitute for soap—Stonecannon-balls—Nadir Shah's attack upon Van—Greekand Assyrian coins—Salutes during Bairam—Aninscription on the rock—An adventurous Englishman—TheCommandant—A Kurd—Hernia—Howto cure rupture—Three American Missionaries—TheEnglish and American flags—The conflagration atVan—Armenian inventions—The Commissioner—Thetroops | [230] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| An extempore market—Carbonate of soda—The population—ThePacha's salary—The Commander's pay—TheHungarian doctor's contract—The Armenianchurch—An inscription—A heathen temple—TheArmenian clergy—Their different grades—The monks—Thetwo Patriarchs—The Catolicos—The meira—Themiraculous power of the Catolicos—The miracleturned into £ s. d.—Baptismal and burial fees—Prayersfor the dead—A curious tradition—KingAbgar the leper—The journey from Van—Themirage—Gull—Paz—Tishikoomlekui—Ardisch—AKurdish girl—A strange custom | [240] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Akserai—The Kurds—Raids upon the villages—Fivefemales ravished—The Pacha at Van is powerless tohelp the villagers—The hot springs in Lake Van—Fish—Howto catch them—Zerekli—Starlings—Intelligentinsects—Patnos—We cross the Muradriver—Dotah—The Caimacan—The devil-worshipper—Hishouse—A Yezeed sheik—Scarcity of accommodation | [248] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| My host—The Sheik's appearance—My host's twodaughters—They attend upon the Sheik—Caressingthe flames—I love the fire—An insult to the Shaitan—Doyou believe in Allah?—Allah can do no harm—TheYezeed fetish—The tomb of Sheik Adi—Yourcows shall not die—Mohammed wants a fetish—Acure for rheumatism—The Melek Taoos—Doyou ever pray?—What is the use? Everythingis fixed—You cannot force Destiny to change hermind—Hidden things—The balls of clay—Mr.Layard—The seven archangels | [253] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| Alongside the river Murad—Waterfalls—The Melaskertriver—Tchekhane—An attack of fever—Quinine—Thedoctor at Toprak Kale—He arrives—The consultation—Excitementamongst the villagers—Thestethoscope—The audience—How clever these Franksare—The Effendi is going to die—Rheumatic fever—Pressedfruit—A native remedy—A long night | [260] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| Mohammed's febrifuge—The doctor's medicine—Zedhane—Daha—HassanBek—Bash—The garrison—Wecross the Araxes—The bridge made by a Circassian—Karakroot—TheCircassian horsemen—The inhabitants—Theireyes and teeth—Gedjerharman—Theplain around Kars—The streets of the town—Thesewerage of the population—The civil governor—Theriver—The war with the Persians—Mount KaraDagh—The fortifications | [267] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| The garrison of Kars—Dr. Lanzoni—A probable outbreakof typhus—The two Pachas—Whose fault is it?—IfGod wills it, there will be no cholera—If God willsit, the Russians will not come here—The hospitalsfull of men suffering from typhus fever—The InternationalCommission—The Grand Duke Michael—Gumri—TheArmenians and their nationality—TheSpeech of the Grand Duke—The Master of theArmenian school—You shall go to prison—TheEmperor Nicholas—Religious liberty granted to Armeniansin Russia—The document—The Patriarch'sdeath—Suspicious circumstances—Cossacks firingupon Mohammedans—Three children wounded—Clergymenof the Church of England—Hankeringafter the idolatrous practices of the Greek faith—Wolvesin sheep's clothing—Colonel Lake—A littleboy shot by the Cossacks—Russia the father of thefatherless—The Rt. Hon. R. Lowe, M.P.—TheAuthor of the Bulgarian horrors—English officersand soldiers massacred in the Crimea—The Court ofInquiry—The Duke of Newcastle's speech—Russianofficers butchering the English wounded | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| The march to Ardahan—Molla Hassan—A Turkishmajor—The garrison of Ardahan—The position ofthe town—The fortifications—Procrastination inmilitary matters—The possible invasion of GreatBritain or India—The military governor—A colonelof artillery—The Russians might take Van—TheAla Dagh Mountains—Freemasonry—The ancientAssyrians—To Livana by road—By the river toBatoum—Selling the horses—What they fetch—Abad bargain | [287] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| Ardanusch—The Ardahan river—Shadavan scenery—Crossingthe mountains—The roof of the world—TheTschorock river—Mohammed is afraid—Kismet—Ifa Christian is ill—Going to Paradise—Does aChristian send for a doctor?—A vast amphitheatre—Kale,or the old fortress of Ardanusch—Akiska—War—TheMostaphas are to be called out—Theroad to Livana—The cayek | [295] |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| The precipice—Better to die to-morrow than to-day—Livana—TheCaimacan—The Padishah of the UnitedStates—The Clerk—A man with a node on his forehead—AChristian with a hump-back—The cayek—Theowner of the boat—The Georgians—Mohammed'salarm—The current—Miradet—The Mudir—Adeserter | [301] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. | |
| Price of corn—Indian corn—Barley—Hardly any horsesin the neighbourhood—Bashi Bazouks—The Persians—Bagdad—Apassenger had been drowned—Mohammedis sea-sick—The harbour of Batoum—Thequarantine station—The garrison—The Cossackoutposts—Shooting down Turkish sentinels—Theencampment—The sanitary arrangements are good—Thenew rifle—The market—Money changers—ATurkish steamer—The agent—If the Lord wills it—Farewellto Mohammed—His tears—Humannature—Reform impossible in Turkey so long asRussia keeps on intriguing—My fellow passengers—ThePacha—Trebizond—Arrival in London | [307] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. | |
| The journey is over—Declaration of war—Her Majesty'sGovernment—An iniquitous and unnecessary step onthe part of the Tzar—The Treaty of Paris—Itsinfringement—Impossible to foresee the consequencesof such an act—Russia's contempt for England—Englandallied with Turkey—Applying the rod—AConference might be held in St. Petersburg—Thesolemn assurances of the Emperor—Samarcand—Khiva—TheBlack Sea Convention—Let the Russiansgo to Constantinople—People who believe in Russianpromises—A non-military power like England—Englandought to join Turkey | [316] |
APPENDIX.
| PAGE | ||
| I. | The Floggers of Women | [323] |
| II. | Christianity as understood in Russia | [325] |
| III. | Russian Civilization | [327] |
| IV. | Russian Agents and the Massacres in Bulgaria | [330] |
| V. | Stabbing under the Guise of Friendship | [344] |
| VI. | The Russian way of Christianizing the Turks | [346] |
| VII. | The Schoolmasters in Massacre | [349] |
| VIII. | Ought we to have saved the Circassians? | [350] |
| IX. | Lessons in Massacre | [351] |
| X. | Statement of the Circassian Deputies in referenceto the Crimean War | [353] |
| XI. | Holy Russia and the Cursed Crescent | [361] |
| XII. | The Corruption of Armenian Officials | [363] |
| XIII. | Female Brigandage | [366] |
| XIV. | The Routes which traverse Asia Minor, and theEuphrates and Tigris | [368] |
| XV. | The Military Importance of Syria | [383] |
| XVI. | Sir John Burgoyne on the Defences of Constantinople | [388] |
| XVII. | The Chekmagee Lines | [393] |
ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
CHAPTER I.
My host—A Russian servant—The Crimean war—How the Russian soldiers were beaten—My father the Tzar—I would sooner be hanged!—The civilized way of eating a dinner—Knives and forks of Circassian manufacture—The Caimacan's opinion of knives and forks—My host's wife—His mother—Your Queen likes riding—An Armenian lady inquiring about balls—The barracks—The appearance of Arabkir—The prison—The inmates—The troops—A nation of soldiers—If Allah wills it—Capital required.
My host now called out in a loud voice, "Atech!" (fire!) "I want to show you my Russian servant," he remarked. The door opened. A man of about fifty years of age, with an unmistakable Calmuck cast of countenance, brought a piece of live charcoal, between a pair of iron tongs, and placed it in the bowl of my host's chibouk; then, retiring to the end of the room, and crossing his arms, he awaited a fresh order.
"So you are a Russian?" I said, addressing the man in his native tongue.