Fig. 67.—Part Back View of Frame for Solid Garden Gate.
Local circumstances will of course determine the width of the gate, but the one illustrated by [Fig. 65] is constructed on a framework 6 ft. square, the total height being 8 ft. The timber for the frame need not be planed.
Fig. 68.
Fig. 69.
Fig. 70.
Fig. 71.
Fig 73.—Detail of Closing Stile.
Fig. 72.Cut the closing and hingeing stiles 6 ft. long out of stuff 6 in. wide by 2½ in. thick. The three rails are of the same dimensions, and can be halved and dovetailed to the stiles or, better, mortised, tenoned, and wedged and braced, as shown in [Figs. 68], [69], and [70]. Separate pieces of stuff are fixed up the centre to form a muntin for supporting the rustic work; the necessity is obvious from [Fig. 66], where it will be noticed the twigs are outlined on the frame. Each twig has a bearing on the frame, and can thus be nailed individually.
Fig. 74.
Fig 75.Two stout gate hinges and hooks are required, and they can be bolted on with 7/16-in. Whitworth bolts and nuts, or secured from the back with square-headed coach screws. Now commence fixing on the unbarked twigs; they should be as straight as possible and used in their natural shape, without being split in halves.
The terminations of the joints for circular stuff are slightly different from the ends of the half-round stuff; see [Figs. 71] and [72]. Start by fixing the outside square, then the two inner squares, and finally the diagonal filling.
The posts are 9 in. or 10 in. in diameter by 9 ft. long, 3 ft. being underground. Cut three mortises in the posts to receive the rails for the side fencing. These rails are nailed flush to the secondary posts, nails also being driven through each mortise in the gate posts. Next dig the holes for the posts, these being kept at correct distances apart by nailing battens to the top and at the ground line while ramming in the posts. Two parts of old brickwork and one part of Portland cement will make a good concrete for the posts.