—When soldering the bottom rims on large milk churns, sufficient heat cannot be maintained with only one soldering bit. At least two heavy bits are required, so that one may be getting hot while the other is in use. The rims are usually tinned before being fixed by first pickling them in dilute hydrochloric acid, washing, and then dipping in a bath of molten tin. When repairing and resoldering the rims, remove all dirt and rust with a file, use a few brushfuls of raw spirits further to assist the cleaning process, then wash with clean water and solder in the usual way, using killed spirits as a flux.
Soldering Hole in Enamelled Ware.
—First scrape or file away the enamel quite clear all round the hole, apply a little raw spirit to the surface of the iron, and coat it with solder in the usual manner. Then cut out a tin disc large enough to cover the hole, and solder this in, using killed spirit as the flux.
Soldering Leaded Lights.
—For soldering the calmes of a lead-light window, the calmes having been fitted properly together, shave a small round dot at the point of junction, sprinkle a little powdered resin on the shaving, and with a copper bit or with a glazier’s iron having a tinned face, melt a small piece of tinman’s ordinary solder on the shaved part so that it tins to the lead and forms a round button.
Soldering Catch on Gun-barrel.
—In soldering a catch on a gun barrel it will first be necessary to tin both barrel and catch, and then to wire them together, in addition binding the barrels for some distance from each side of the catch, making the ribs secure with wedges. To melt the solder, use heaters; these are generally made of copper with iron handles; or iron rods can be used, the ends being made red hot and inserted in the barrels. Cut some small slips of thin solder and place them on each side of the catch, using powdered resin. As soon as the solder melts, remove the heaters and cool the barrels.
CHAPTER V
Soft-soldering with Blowpipe or Bunsen Burner
