33. 34. 35. 36. 37. W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON ST. STRAND. W.C.
No. 38. Tellemarken, Norway.
No. 39. Mecklenburg.
Nos. 40, 41. Brittany.
No. 42. Welsh. Among the different costumes of Wales, there are few more picturesque and elegant than that of Gwent and Morganwg, which ancient district includes the present counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan; and, although now rarely seen, it is by no means extinct. The hat is beaver, which, although so called, was formerly made of the skin of the hare. The brim is sufficiently wide to cast a shade over the eyes and brow, which artists well know is so peculiarly becoming to the face; and from the hat being set on the head to incline downward (higher behind than before), this artistic effect is still more striking. The genuine Welsh cap has a border either of muslin, with narrow edging of lace, or for special dress, the whole border of good thread lace; and without a personal trial few could believe how the combination of such a hat and cap beautifies plain women, and still further improves the beautiful. The handkerchief is worn with the point behind to the waist, which is of natural and moderate length. The handkerchiefs are, for general use, blue and white, or pink and white, cross-barred, with a border, are worn double, and tightly pinned across the chest; for special occasions they are often scarlet and yellow, or blue and white. The gown has sleeves to the elbow, and for elderly persons often turns the elbow. The bodice is tight and low, and fastens in front, being pinned across under the handkerchief, the gown being open before. The skirt (if skirt it can be called) does not extend farther than an inch or two beyond the hips; it is very full behind, and has loops along the edge through which a tape is run, which draws it together, and is tied to another loop which is fixed at the back, in the centre of the waist in the inside. This part of the gown is not much longer than the petticoat, so that when it is drawn up only an inch of the petticoat is seen below, and sometimes it is even with the petticoat. The apron is of black and white or blue and white check—the Welsh national checks being totally different from the Scotch plaids, the only similarity consisting in both having cross bars. The strings of the apron are often passed through a loop which is attached underneath the point of the handkerchief, crossed behind and tied before, not being too wide to allow the coloured petticoat to be seen at the sides. The petticoat is moderately full, and short enough to show the ankles. The shoes, black leather with strong soles, used to be invariably set off with large buckles, which nearly covered the front of the instep; the shoes being high and fastened by the tongue of the buckle, but those worn without buckles had small leather ears on each side, with a hole in each, which tied over the instep. In cold weather, or when required, long sleeves of the same material as the gown, or coloured printed calico, or of knitted black wool, are added, or long-armed black mittens; and a cloak with a hood is thrown on. In the present instance the gown is orange and black, the petticoat violet and black. The present costume admits of many other varieties of ancient national Welsh patterns, both in colour and design, still made in the same district.
No. 43. Mecklenburg.
No. 44. Norway, Sætersdal. The men wear striped trousers, reaching almost to the throat, and showing a white shirt under the arms. A sort of very short jacket covers the shoulders, and closes across the upper part of the chest. To the uninitiated, it appears quite a riddle how they put this peculiar garment on. The jacket worn by the women is of equally curious cut. It opens horizontally across the bust to show a linen bodice, which again appears as a large stand-up collar on the throat. The hair is gathered into a net decorated with ribbons, which entirely hides it, and falls to the shoulders. With their short petticoats and jackets, braided with galloons and studded with silver buttons, a bright-coloured wrapper fastened to one shoulder, and draped round the waist, a Sætersdal girl presents a picturesque appearance.