Fig. 8
FIRST LOG OF SIDE WALL, NOTCHED TO FIT OVER JOIST JOIST FLATTENED VERY SLIGHTLY SILL, HEWN FLAT ON TOP FOUNDATION GAIN TENON
Each rafter should be cut in slightly to the purlins and spiked tightly to each purlin and to the ridge log. When setting in any of these pieces don’t forget to bed them well with oakum to make sure that they are weather tight. Dressed siding is good material for the roof. On this nail the roofing you have selected.
The type of roofing used depends on how much you want to spend. Composition roofing is fire resistant and will last quite well, but it is not particularly attractive on a log cabin. Shingles laid in the customary way with the butt ends exposed for about one-third of the length make a good roof. Shakes probably make the most interesting as well as durable roofs for a cabin, although they are more expensive. Shakes come in various sizes and add a final distinctive touch to a house.
If you expect to use your cabin in very cold weather, a double roof would be the wise provision. After laying your sheathing, cover it with a layer of building paper or other insulating material. Then nail on a series of 2×2 timber strips parallel to the rafters beneath. Across these strips lay another layer of sheathing and then the shingles or shakes. This forms a dead air space that is effective in insulating the house against cold.
Use Planks for Cabin Doors
If you are going to keep the pioneer atmosphere in your log cabin, don’t spoil it by buying millwork doors. Good, honest plank doors—made of any dressed timber, with cross pieces firmly nailed and clinched—are more in the spirit of things. A little ingenuity will go a long way toward making a beautiful door out of humble materials. Have some country blacksmith make a set of strap hinges and an old fashioned latch. You’ll be well pleased with the effect. A good, strong snap lock is a necessity to keep out intruders in your absence, of course.
If you want a good floor with a cabin “look” to it, get a supply of planks in widths varying from 6 to 12 inches—and have them tongue-and-grooved at the mill. Instead of nailing them, bore ¾-inch holes half way through and fasten them down with screws. Into each hole drive a hardwood plug, gluing it for tightness; then cut it off and smooth it down flush with the floor with sandpaper. This gives the effect of a “pinned” floor, which was very popular with the pioneer cabin builders.
Tongue-and-grooved flooring in narrow widths should be “blind-nailed”—the nails driven in at a slant from the sides and set with a punch, but for wide planks it is perfectly all right, if you wish, to nail through the boards and let the heads show.