All lasts should be made with blocks, and high combs, for all kinds of boots or shoes, as thus the uppers are kept smooth, in good shape, and clean.

There is much confusion in the length of boots and shoes. This is caused by the manufacturers using the size sticks in common use, which are incorrect. Thus shoes marked fives, are made on a four and a half last; a five last should be made just ten inches long, and all below that should vary just one-third of an inch to each size, and all sizes above five should be subject to the same variation.

WOMEN’S LASTS.
Marked2is 9inches long.
Marked3  9⅓inches long
Marked4  9⅔inches long
Marked5 10inches long
Marked6 10⅓inches long
Marked7 10⅔inches long
Marked8 11inches long
BOYS’ LASTS.
Marked1is 8⅔inches long.
Marked2  9inches long
Marked3  9⅓inches long
Marked4  9⅔inches long
Marked5 10inches long
MEN’S LASTS.
Marked5is10inches long.
Marked6 10⅓inches long
Marked7 10⅔inches long
Marked11 12inches long
Marked12 12⅓inches long
Marked13 12⅔inches long
Marked14 13inches long

The width of mens’ lasts on the bottom, vary one-twelfth of an inch for each size, and three-twelfths of an inch over the instep for each size. A man’s ten last of a good fulness measures across the ball three and three-eighths inches; across the heel two and five-eighths, and in the same proportions of fulness; the five’s last measure across the ball three inches, and the heel two and three-eighths, and the same proportions of fulness should for a ten’s last, girt ten and one-half inches over the instep, and the five’s should girt nine and one-quarter inches. A ten’s vamp for men’s Oxford-tie, measures across its extreme points, nine inches; five’s vamp, eight inches. Draw a line across from one extreme point to the other, and six and seven-eighths inches of that line will give the length for the ten’s vamp, and six inches will give the length for the five’s vamp. Five and one-half inches will be the proper length for the base line of a ten’s quarter; five inches for the five’s quarter; the quarter at the back of a ten’s upper is three and one-half inches high; the five’s quarter is three and one-sixteenth inches high. Draw a line from the front point of the quarter, to the top of the heel line on the quarter, and eight and one-quarter inches gives its length, and seven and one-quarter the length for the five’s; the front base line for the ten’s is three and three-eighths of an inch long, the five’s three inches long. Draw a line perpendicular from the base of the ten’s quarter to the top point, and five and one-eighths inches will give its height; four and five-eighths will be the height for the five’s quarter. Draw a line on the upper, after it is closed from the centre of the toes, to the top of the quarter, and also to the heel, and its length will be twelve and seven-eighths. On a ten’s last it is eleven and five-eighths full. The upper when folded and pressed together, will be three and one-half sizes larger than the last.

The width of Mr. Kimball’s seven F last across the ball is three and one-eighth inches; width of heel two and one-sixteenth inches. The A’s seven last across the ball is two and one half-inches, the heel two and three-sixteenths. By this it will be seen that his system for varying the width of his lasts, is one-eighth of an inch for each size across the ball, and one-sixteenth of an inch across the heel. With his three marked C, M, F,[[1]] &c., you have three degrees of fulness for each last, making it the most convenient system in use. The upper of A. No. 6 ladies’ shoe, should measure eight and five-eighths inches over the highest part of the instep; the No. 2 should measure seven and seven-eighths and one-sixteenth, over the same part. In this manner, the variation for each size is one-twelfth of an inch on each side of the vamp; this is the same variation as in the men’s uppers.

[1]. C—common; M—medium; F—full.

Children and misses shoes can all be arranged on the same system of diagrams. Every Boot and Shoe manufacturer and maker, should have full sets of patterns. By having a pattern of each size and style, there is no waste of time in drafting. The patterns can be easily and correctly altered or varied to meet any emergency that may arise. It is not safe to trust to the eye as it is liable to mistakes.

By following the directions here given, together with the instructions already laid down, any person of common capacity and ordinary ingenuity, can cut a full set of patterns for any description of boot or shoe required.

COMMON OR MEDIUM PROPORTIONS OF FEET.

MEN’S SIZES.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
610⅓inches.12½inches.9¼inches.
710⅔inches.12½inches.9⅜inches.
811inches.13inches.9⅜inches.
911⅓inches.13½inches.9⅞inches.
1011⅔inches.14inches.10¼inches.
1112inches.14½inches.10½inches.
LADIES’ SIZES.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
39⅓inches.11¼inches.8½inches.
49⅔inches.11½inches.8¾inches.
510inches.11⅞inches.9inches.
610⅓inches.12inches.9¼inches.
710⅔inches.12⅛inches.9¼inches.
BOYS’ SIZES.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
18⅔inches.10½inches.7⅞inches.
29inches.11¼inches.8¼inches.
39⅓inches.11½inches.8⅞inches.
49⅔inches.12inches.8⅝inches.
510inches.12¼inches.8⅞inches.
YOUTHS’ SIZES.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
97inches.8¾inches.6½inches.
107⅓inches.9inches.6¾inches.
117⅔inches.9¼inches.7inches.
128inches.9½inches.7¼inches.
138⅓inches.10inches.7½inches.
MISSES LASTS.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
107⅓inches.10inches.6⅔inches.
117⅔inches.10⅓inches.6⅚inches.
128inches.10⅔inches.7inches.
138⅓inches.11inches.7⅙inches.
18⅔inches.11⅓inches.7⅓inches.
29inches.11⅔inches.7½inches.
C LASTS.
All Children’s Lasts should always be made Block Lasts.
Size.Length of foot.Heel measure.Over the instep.
107⅓inches.10inches.6⅔inches.
97inches.9⅔inches.6½inches.
86⅔inches.9⅓inches.6⅓inches.
76⅓inches.9inches.6⅙inches.
66inches.8⅔inches.6inches.
55⅔inches.8⅓inches.5⅚inches.
45⅓inches.8inches.5⅔inches.
35inches.7⅔inches.5½inches.
24⅔inches.7⅓inches.5⅓inches.
14⅓inches.7inches.5⅙inches.
04inches.6⅔inches.5inches.