Shade Roller Attached to Upper Window Sash

Free circulation of air cannot be obtained through a window when the shade is attached to the window casing, as it partly fills the opening caused by lowering the upper sash. If the shade roller is attached to the top of the upper sash, the shade can perform its function without obstructing the opening when the sash is lowered. It only requires a shorter roller and a narrower shade. The roller brackets are attached in the usual manner, but, in order to have the shade hang vertically, a block, as wide as the lower sash frame, must be fastened under each bracket.

When the Upper Sash is Lowered the Shade is Out of the Way of the Opening

This arrangement also makes it much easier to put up a curtain, as the sash can be let down until the roller can be reached while standing on a chair.—Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Flashing Hook

Having occasion to do a large amount of counter-flashing in a new wall where the mortar was soft and the joint too large to use an ordinary nail or the regular flashing hook, I made hooks from No. 24 gauge galvanized iron, having hooks of extra size and strength, as shown in the sketch. The size of the hook is 1-3/4 by 3-1/8 in. On each side edge, 1-1/8 in. from one end, I cut teeth, A A, and clipped the corners of the opposite end at an angle. The end at B was turned down at right angles and the points A A bent in the opposite direction. I placed the counter-flashing in the usual manner, with the projection B hanging down and the pointed end of the hook in the joint, and drove or pushed it in tightly. The points A A will catch on the under side of the brick and hold solidly.—Contributed by Ralph M. Chatham, Orleans, Indiana.

A Homemade Dibble