A small battery motor—I had one on hand and did not need to purchase one—was fastened to one side of the box so that its pulley was in line with the pulley on the lower surface of the frame. The batteries to run the motor were placed in the corner of the box, where the revolving frame would not touch them. The motor may be of larger current capacity, however, and run direct on the current used for the lamps.
(Fig. 2)
About 1/2 in. from the lower end of the turned piece A, a brass strip was fastened around it. This work should be neatly done, and the joint soldered and smoothed, so that the outer surface will not catch on the brush used to make the contact. This ring can be better made by cutting the width from a piece of brass tubing of a size to fit on the turned stick A. About 1-1/2 in. from the lower end four segments of a circle were fastened so as to make a space of about 1/4 in. between their ends. This construction is clearly shown in Fig. 2. A cross section, showing the wire connections from the brass ring and segments to the lamps and where they lead out on top, is shown at B. The contact brushes consist of brass strips fastened with bolts to an upright, C, made of wood and attached to one edge of the block in the bottom of the box. Two nuts are used on each bolt, between which are fastened the lead wires from a source of current.
(Fig. 3)
The wiring diagram is shown in Fig. 3. The wire D from the ring is run to the brass base of each lamp, of which there are four. The wires E, from each segment, are connected with solder to each screw ferrule of the lamps, and the ends are left bare and open, as shown, between the lamps.
(Fig. 4)
A lamp is fastened to each corner of the frame on top, as shown in Fig. 4, with a piece of wire wrapped once around the screw ferrule and the extending ends held with staples. The wire used should be heavily insulated or, if it is of iron, a rubber tube slipped over it. A piece of tin, or bright metal, is placed beneath each globe for a reflector.