The reel consists of two strips of wood, 16 in. long, 3 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick. These are joined together with two pieces of broom handle, allowing a space of 9 in. between the sides and an extending handle of 5 in. on opposite sides, as shown.—Contributed by Bert Longabaugh, Davenport, Iowa.
Gear-Cutting Machine
Perhaps the last thing that would be thought within range of the amateur who lacks a full equipment of machinery is the cutting of gear wheels. The device shown in the sketch is very practical, and, with the most ordinary assortment of iron-working tools, will serve to turn out an accurate gear.
Details of Gear-Cutting Machine (Fig. 1)
No system of supports is shown, as they are easily supplied. A flat, square board, B, as large as can be obtained—2 ft. on a side being the safest minimum—is used for a dial. A sheet of paper is pasted over the entire board and a large circle drawn on it. This circle is divided into as many parts as there are to be teeth in the gear. A depression is made with a prick punch at each division. A shaft, C, is run through the center, to which an arm, A, is firmly attached. A nail, N, is placed at the end of the arm so that the point can enter each of the punch marks on the periphery or circumference of the circle. A blank wheel, W, is attached to the shaft C, in the position shown, and resting on the iron plate or strap F. A cutting tool, D, works up and down in a slot in F. This cutter is held away from the blank wheel by the spring S, and moved up to it by the screw G, acting through the sliding member H. A stove bolt may be used for G, with the nut firmly fastened to the strap F. The cutter is actuated with a handle E, whose motion is limited by the pegs as shown. In Fig. 2 is shown a top view of the strap E, with a cross section of the cutter and the slot in which it works.
(Fig. 2)
The operation of the mechanism is as follows: With the blank wheel in place set the nail N in one of the punch marks and move the handle E downward. This will make a slight cut on the wheel. Then give the screw G a turn or two, which will make the cutter take a deeper bite, and push the handle down again. This operation is repeated, screwing G constantly deeper, until it is stopped by the locknut J, which regulates the depth of the cut. Move the nail N to the next punch mark and repeat. The operations are very quickly performed and the circle will be closed almost before you know it.