Having selected a good strip of dagame, 5/8 in. square, run the plane along each side and from both ends. This will determine the direction in which the grain runs. Drill two holes at the end decided upon for the butt, spacing them about 1/4 in. from the end, as shown in Fig. 4. Drive a stout brad in the corner of the bench top and hook the butt end over the nail. By rigging the stick up in this manner it will be securely held, and planing may be done with the grain with greater ease and accuracy than when the end of the stick is butted up against a cleat nailed to the bench top.
The wood should be planed straight and true from end to end and calipered until it is 1/2 in. square. It may appear crooked, but this need not trouble one at this stage of the work, since it may be made perfectly straight later on. Overlook any kinks, and do not attempt to straighten the stick by planing more from one side than the other. The chief thing to be done is to fashion a square stick, and when the caliper shows the approximate diameter, draw crosslines at the ends to find the center.
The length of the hand grasp should be marked out. If a double grasp is wanted, allow 12 in. from the butt end. This will afford an 11-in. hand grasp after sawing off the end in which the holes were drilled. For a single hand grasp make an allowance of 11 in. However, the double grasp—with cork above and below the reel seat—is preferred by most anglers because it affords a better grip for the hand when reeling in the line. Mark the hand-grasp distance by running a knife mark around the rod 12 in. from the butt end.
Diagram or Layout for a One-Piece Bait-Casting Rod, Showing Calipered Dimensions for Each Six Inches of Length. A Paper Pattern of Any Rod may be Drawn Up, Providing the Amateur Rod Maker Has a Rod to Use for a Pattern, or Possesses the Exact Diameter of the Rod at Intervals of Six Inches along Its Length (Fig. 5)
Lay out a diagram showing the full length of the rod by placing a strip of paper—the unprinted back of a strip of wall paper is just the thing—on the bench and drawing two lines from the diameter of the butt to that of the tip. While the caliber of casting rods differs somewhat, the dimensions given will suit the average angler, and I would advise the beginner to make the rod to these measurements. For the butt, draw a line, exactly 1/2 in. long, across the paper and from the center of this line run a straight pencil mark at right angles to the tip end, or 60 in. distant, at which point another crossline is drawn, exactly 1/8 in. long, to represent the diameter. Connect the ends of these two crosslines to make a long tapering form. Divide this pattern into eight equal parts, beginning at 12 in. from the butt end, marking a crossline at every 6 in. This layout is shown exaggerated in Fig. 5. If it is desired to copy a certain rod, find the diameter at the several 6-in. stations with the caliper and write them down at the corresponding sections of the paper diagram. However, if a splendid all-around casting rod is desired, it is perfectly safe to follow the dimensions given in Fig. 5, which show the manner of dividing the paper pattern into the equal parts and the final diameter of the rod at each 6-in. station, or line.
Gauge Made of Sheet Brass Having Slots Corresponding in Length and Width with the Caliper-Layout Measurements (Fig. 6)
Procure a small strip of thin brass, or zinc, and file nine slots on one edge to correspond in diameter with the width of the horizontal lines which indicate the diameter of the rod on the pattern. This piece is shown in Fig. 6. By making use of the pattern and the brass gauge, the rod may be given the desired taper and the work will proceed more quickly than if the caliper is alone relied upon to repeatedly check up the work.