| 4 | pieces, | ⁵⁄₁₆ | by | 4 | in. | by | 10 | ft., | hard | wood. | |
| 7 | „ | 1 | by | 1 | in. | by | 16 | in., | „ | „ | |
| 2 | „ | ¹⁄₂ | by | 1 | in. | by | 16 | in., | „ | „ | |
| 2 | „ | 1 | by | 6 | in. | by | 6 | ft., | common boards. | ||
| 6 | „ | 1 | by | 2 | in. | by | 18 | in., | „ | „ | |
| 1 | cylindrical block, 12 in. diameter by 18 in. long. | ||||||||||
This Toboggan Is Strong and Light; It will afford the Maker Much Pleasure Both in the Interesting Process of Construction and in the Use for Coasting or Transportation. It may be Made as an Individual Project or as a Joint Undertaking by Several Boys
The form for the bending of the pieces is made of the common boards and the block. A block sawed from the end of a dry log is excellent. Heat it, if convenient, just before bending the strips. The boards for the bottom should be selected for straightness of grain and freedom from knots and burls. Carefully plane the side intended for the wearing surface, and bevel the edges so that, when placed together, they form a wide “V” joint, half the depth of the boards. The 1 by 1-in. pieces are for cross cleats and should be notched on one side, 1 in. from each end, to receive the side ropes. The two ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces are to be placed one at each side of the extreme end of the bent portion, to reinforce it.
The Boards for the Bottom are Steamed or Boiled at the Bow Ends and Bent over the Form. As the Bending Operation Progresses, the Boards are Nailed to the Form with Cleats, and Permitted to Dry in This Position
Bore a gimlet hole through the centers of the 1 by 2 by 18-in pieces, and 4¹⁄₄ in. each side of this hole, bore two others. Nail the end of one of the 6-ft. boards to each end of the block, so that their extended ends are parallel. With 3-in. nails, fasten one of the bored pieces to the block between the boards, inserting, temporarily, a ¹⁄₂-in. piece to hold it out that distance from the block.
Steam about 3 ft. of the ends of the boards, or boil them in a tank. Clamp, or nail, the boards together, at the dry ends, edge to edge, between two of the 1 by 2-in. pieces, leaving about ¹⁄₄-in. opening between boards. Thrust the steamed ends under the cleat nailed on the block, the nails which hold it slipping up between the boards. Bear down on the toboggan carefully, nailing on another of the bored cleats, when the toboggan boards have been curved around the block as far as the floor will permit. The nails, of course, go between the boards.
Now, turn the construction over and bend up the toboggan, following the boards around the block with more of the nailed cleats, until the clamped end is down between the two 6-ft. boards, where it can be held by a piece nailed across. More of the cleats may be nailed on if desired; in fact, the closer together the cleats are the less danger there is of splintering the boards, and the more perfect the conformity of the boards to the mold.
Allow at least four days for drying before removing the boards from the form. Clamp the ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces one each side of the extreme ends of the bent bows, drill holes through, and rivet them. A 1 by 1-in. crossbar is riveted to the inside of the bow at the extreme front and another directly under the extremity of the curved end. These cleats are wired together to hold the bend of the bow. The tail end crossbar should be placed not nearer than 2¹⁄₂ in. from the end of the boards, while the remainder of the crossbars are evenly spaced between the front and back pieces, taking care that the notched side is always placed down. Trim off uneven ends, scrape and sandpaper the bottom well, and finish the toboggan with oil. Run a ³⁄₈-in. rope through the notches under the ends of the cross pieces, and the toboggan is completed.