A Safe Play Space Either Indoors or Outdoors is Provided for the Child, and the Fence may be Moved Easily. The Construction Is Light yet Stable, and can be Carried Out without Difficulty by the Home Woodworker
Before putting on the wire mesh, all the exposed corners should be “broken” slightly with sandpaper, the wood wiped smooth, and finished with a coat of shellac. The wood may, of course, be left unfinished. In fixing the 1-in. wire mesh in place, fasten one end of the piece squarely at the end of the frame, nailing it with staples. Place a strip of wood under each end of the frame and bear down on the middle of the frame, or weight it, to produce a bowed effect. Then nail the other end of the wire securely; on removing the strips, the wire will be drawn taut. Tack the edges down, and repeat this process on the other frames. Next nail the covering strips on the front faces of the frames, mitering them at the corners, as shown at A.
Join the Pieces with Well-Made Lap Joints, and Hinge the Frames as Indicated
The frames are then joined by means of hinges, as shown in the plan at A. Care should be taken that they are set so that the corners of the fence meet squarely and evenly when it is opened. Metal drawbolts should be fastened horizontally, one on the top of each folding joint between the end sections. These will prevent the child from folding the ends in, and possibly injuring its fingers. The completed fence is then given a final coat of shellac or varnish, the galvanized wire being left unfinished.
The materials required for the fence are as follows, the wood being listed in lineal feet, and smoothed on four sides to the dimensions indicated:
| 155 | ft. ¹⁄₂ by 2-in. clear pine |
| 50 | ft. ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. clear pine |
| 22 | lineal ft. 1-in. mesh, 2-ft. wide wire fencing. |
| 6 | pairs 1¹⁄₂ in. iron plain butt hinges, with screws. |
| 2 | steel drawbolts, with screws. |
| ¹⁄₂ | pt. white shellac. |
Water Rheostat for Small Electrical Devices
