Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Sharpened Poles, Two Feet Long, are Used with This Pile Driver in Building Foundations, Wharves, and Other Structures of Piling. The Details of the Headblock and the Nipper Device are Shown in Figs. 2 and 3
A Small Working Pile Driver
By EDWARD A. KRUEGER
[These directions will enable boys of varying skill with tools to make a pile driver, as a toy or model. Several simple methods of making the parts in the home workshop, with materials easily obtainable, are suggested.—Editor.]
The construction of small docks, wharves, piers, and foundations or bridges, buildings, and other structures, by the driving of piling is interesting out-of-door play, in which boys will find much fun. A pile driver for this work is shown in the page plate, [Fig. 1]. The hammer is raised by means of a winch, and is dropped automatically when it reaches the cap of the derrick, as indicated in [Fig. 3]. The drum is then released, and the weighted double-hook nipper drops down, picking up the hammer on the next upstroke. A single-hook nipper, that can be made easily of wire, is also shown in the detail sketch, [Fig. 6]. The small boy who cannot make the nippers or the winch, may tie the rope directly to the hammer, drawing it up by hand, and dropping it as desired. The hammer need not be fitted to the guides, but merely arranged to drop between them, and the derrick can be made of only a few main pieces. The larger parts of the hammer and nipper weight are best made of lead, babbitt, or white metal, as these may be cut or melted readily. Iron, brass, or copper, solid or in plates, may be used, if means for shaping them are at hand.
The making of the derrick may be undertaken first. Make two pieces for the bed A, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 17 in.; two hammer guides B, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 33¹⁄₈ in.; one bed piece, C, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 20 in.; two bed pieces, D, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 5¹⁄₄ in.; two posts, E, ¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂ by 34¹⁄₂ in.; two braces, F, ³⁄₈ by ³⁄₄ by 26¹⁄₂ in. Cut these pieces slightly over their finished lengths as given, allowing for trimming and fitting. Make strips, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in., for the bracing on the sides of the derrick and the ladder bracing on the back.
Notch the lower ends of guides B, ¹⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈. and the lower ends of posts E, on an angle, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, to fit pieces A. Join the parts of the bed, as shown in the [page plate], pieces A being set 3¹⁄₂ in. apart, fastening them with bolts or screws. Make braces G, of sheet metal, and bolt them in place. Fit the posts E into place, and fasten them at the bed and the top. Put on several ladder braces temporarily, to steady the frame. Fit the braces F carefully, and bolt them in place. Remove the piece C and the braces F, and nail the horizontal bracing to the sides of the frame. Then fit and nail the diagonal braces. The bolted construction is convenient in “knocking down” the derrick for storing it. Reassemble the parts, and make the cap for the headblock.
The headblock and cap are shown in detail in [Figs. 2 and 3]. Make two pieces, H, ¹⁄₄ by 1⁵⁄₁₆ by 1³⁄₄ in.; one piece, J, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 1³⁄₁₆ in.; two braces, K, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹³⁄₃₂ by 1³⁄₄ in. Make the two beveled pieces of the cap ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in., and provide a wooden strip or metal plate for the front and rear edges, as shown. Fasten strips of sheet metal to the bevel of the notch, to protect it from wear by the striking of the nipper hooks. Make the sheave 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter and ³⁄₈ in. thick, with a groove for the rope. Assemble the parts, as shown.