Supposing the cylinder to be rotated to the position marked O, the circuit may be traced from the positive terminal of the battery U, as follows: To contact spring E, to strip of brass L, to strip of brass M, to contact spring F, through the field windings VV, to contact spring D, to strip of brass K, to strip of brass J, to contact spring C, through resistance W and Y, to armature Z, through armature to the negative terminal of the battery. Moving the cylinder to the position P merely cuts out the resistance W, and to the position Q, cuts out the remaining resistance Y. The direction of the current through the armature and series field, for all positions of the cylinder to the left, is indicated by the full-line arrows. Moving the controller to the positions marked R, S, and T, will result in the same changes in circuit connections, as in the previous case, except the direction of the current in the series field windings will be reversed.
Fig. 2
Upper-End View of the Controller, Showing the Manner of Attaching the Springs
The construction of the controller may be carried out as follows: Obtain a cylindrical piece of wood, 1³⁄₄ in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₈ in. long, preferably hard wood. Turn one end of this cylinder down to a diameter of ¹⁄₂ in., and drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through its center from end to end. Divide the circumference of the small-diameter portion into eight equal parts and drive a small nail into the cylinder at each division point, the nail being placed in the center of the surface lengthwise and perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. Cut off all the nail heads so that the outer ends of the nails extend even with the surface of the outer, or large-size, cylinder. Divide the large part into eight equal parts so that the division points will be midway between the ends of the nails, and draw lines the full length of the cylinder on these points. Divide the cylinder lengthwise into seven equal parts and draw a line around it at each division point. Cut some ¹⁄₈-in. strips from thin sheet brass and mount them on the cylinder to correspond to those shown in [Fig. 1]. Any one of the vertical division lines drawn on the cylinder may be taken as the neutral point. The pieces may be mounted by bending the ends over and sharpening them so that they can be driven into the wood. The various strips of brass should be connected electrically, as shown by the heavy lines in Fig. 1, but these connections must all be made so that they will not extend beyond the outer surface of the strips of brass.
A small rectangular frame is made, and the cylinder is mounted in a vertical position in it by means of a rod passing down through a hole in the top of the rectangle, through the hole in the cylinder and partly through the bottom of the rectangle. The upper part of the rod may be bent so as to form a handle. The rod must be fastened to the cylinder in some convenient way.
Make six flat springs similar to the one shown at A, [Fig. 2], and mount them on the inside of the rectangle so that they will correspond in their vertical positions to the strips of brass on the cylinder. Six small binding posts mounted on the outside of the box and connected to these springs serve to make the external connections, and they should be marked so that they may be easily identified.
A flat spring, ¹⁄₄ in. wide, is made similar to the one shown at B, [Fig. 2]. Mount this spring on the inside of the rectangle so it will mesh with the ends of the nails in the small part of the cylinder. The action of this spring is to make the cylinder stop at definite positions. The top of the case should be marked so that the position of the handle will indicate the position of the cylinder. Stops should also be provided so that the cylinder case cannot be turned all the way around.
Miniature Push Buttons
A very neat and workmanlike push button may be made in the following manner: Procure an unused tan-shoe eyelet with an opening about ³⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, and at the proper point drill a hole into the board in which the button is to be set. Force the eyelet in flush, using a little shellac to hold it in tightly. For the button proper, polish off and round one end of a piece of brass rod of a diameter that will move freely up and down in the eyelet. Solder a small piece of sheet brass across the lower end to keep it from coming out, then adjust and fasten on the two contact pieces, all as indicated in the sketch. The larger piece should be quite springy so as to bring the button back each time. The connections may be made by slipping the wires under the heads of the two wood screws that hold the contact pieces in place.