Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First and Second Rows Across
Pull out the center rod, insert it in the second row of meshes, loosen the ends that were looped up and begin the knotting of the opposite ends of the cords. When both sides are completed to within 2¹⁄₂ ft. of the ends, the center rod is removed and inserted in the last row of meshes. Another simple device will be found efficient, which consists of a board, 30 in. long, three or more inches wide and 1 in. thick, with three nails driven in slanting, as shown in [Fig. 14], to prevent the ring and rod from slipping off as the tying proceeds. One 2¹⁄₂-in. galvanized ring will be required for each end. The ring is attached to the single nail at the end with a string. This will be found better than just slipping the ring over the nail, as it is necessary to have a little more play in putting the cords through for the tying. The distance from the rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie is made in pairs as before, one cord going under and the other over the side of the ring, using the flat reef knot. There will be a few inches of ends remaining after the tie is made and these are brought back to the main body of the cord and wound with an extra cord used for that purpose. The winding is started by looping the end of the extra cord, or string, about the whole bundle of cord together with the ends, pulling tightly and tying securely with the flat reef knot. This is illustrated in [Fig. 15]. The winding should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. long where the turned-back ends are cut off. Each time the cord is wound about the bundle it should be looped through its own winding and drawn tightly. This is practically the buttonhole loop. To finish the winding the cord should be given a double looping through its own winding; then with an awl, or other pointed tool, work a way through the under side of the other windings so that the end may be brought out farther back and pulled tightly, to prevent unwinding when the pull comes on the hammock. Attach the ring to the opposite end in the same manner and the hammock is complete.
Attaching the Rings to the Ends of the Cords and the Binding near the Rings: All the Pairs of Cords are Looped about a Rod in the Center, and the Knots are Made toward the Ends
The edge can be bound the same as a tennis net, or a rope can be run through the outside meshes lengthwise, as desired. A very pretty effect can be obtained by knotting, in a similar manner to the body of the hammock, an apron fringe for the sides.
Homemade Section Liner
For the rapid and uniform hatching of cross sections this little device will be found to give results equaling most of the high-priced instruments that can be purchased. It consists of a hardwood block used in connection with a 45° triangle. The corners are cut to permit the triangle to slide the desired distance; then, by alternately sliding the triangle and block with the left hand, equal spacings can be drawn without measurements of any kind.
Block Used in a Triangle to Move It at Equal Distances for Making Section Lines
Two different spacings may be drawn with one block by reversing it and two blocks having a different location of the angles will give four spacings, which is about all the draftsman requires in ordinary practice. No alteration of the triangle is required with this device, and it requires but little skill to construct it.—Contributed by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.