A diagram of the electrical circuit is shown in [Fig. 3], in which G represents the electromagnet to trip the trigger that supports the weight, and H the contact which remains open until the weight is raised to the upper position, when the spring J is forced against the spring K and closes the circuit. The circuit still remains broken until the contact L is closed by the key on the alarm clock, which is set in a vertical position between two springs representing the terminals of the wire. The contact H should be so located on the housing for the weight that it will be closed only when the weight is resting on the latch C. The circuit is then opened as soon as the latch C is released, and the clapper will stop vibrating.
¶When a pencil becomes too short for the hand, apply paste to about 1 in. of the rubber end, roll on a sheet of paper about 6 in. long, and almost all of the pencil can be used.
How to Make Hammocks
By CHARLES M. MILLER
PART II—A Netted Hammock
A good hammock should be about 12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of network and 2 ft., at each end, of long cords that are attached to rings. Seine twine, of 24-ply, is the best material and it will take 1¹⁄₂ lb. to make a hammock. The twine comes in ¹⁄₂-lb. skeins and should be wound into balls to keep it from knotting before the right time. Two galvanized rings, about 2¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are required.
| Fig. 1 | Fig. 3 |
| Fig. 2 |
The Tools Necessary Consist of a Needle or Shuttle, a Guage Board, and a Mesh Stick
The equipment for netting a hammock consists of a wood needle, or shuttle, a gauge board for the long meshes at the ends, and a mesh stick for the regular netting of the main body of the hammock, all of which will be described in detail.
The shuttle is made of wood and is 12 in. long, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. The best material to use is maple or other hard wood, but very satisfactory ones can be cut from good-grained pine. The sketch, [Fig. 1], shows the general shape of the shuttle, one end being pointed and the other forked. Lay out the pointed end before beginning to cut down to size. Place a compass at the center of the end, and with a radius of 1¹⁄₂ in. describe the arc AB. With the intersections of this arc and the side lines of the needle, C and D, as centers, and the same radius, 1¹⁄₂ in., cut the arc AB at E and F. With E and F as centers draw the curves of the end of the shuttle. The reason for placing the centers outside of the shuttle lines is to obtain a longer curve to the end. The curves can be drawn free-hand but will then not be so good.
The space across the needle at GH is divided into five ¹⁄₄-in. divisions. The centers of the holes J and K at the base of the tongue are 3¹⁄₂ in. from the pointed end. The opening is 2³⁄₄ in. long. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the right end of the opening, and just to the left three holes, as shown by the dotted lines. With a coping saw cut out along the lines and finish with a knife, file and sandpaper. Round off the edges as shown by the sectional detail. It is well to bevel the curve at L so that the shuttle will wind easily. The fork is ³⁄₄ in. deep, each prong being ¹⁄₄ in wide. Slant the point of the shuttle and round off all edges throughout and sandpaper smooth.