Fig. 3
Skiing Sticks with Staff of Bamboo or Hard Wood Having an Easily Removable Aluminum Washer
The use of two sticks may be of help for mountain climbing, but the majority of ski runners consider one stout stick to be of more real service. For downhill running, the extra stick is of no value whatever, but rather a hindrance, the one stick being all that is required for braking. In choosing a stick, its height may be such that it will reach to the shoulders of the skier, although many prefer a shorter one. On the average, a stick 5 ft. long will be found about right for most persons, while a proportionately shorter stick will be required for boys and girls. Bamboo of good quality is generally preferred, since it is light, elastic, and very stiff and strong. Hardwood sticks are a trifle heavier, but if fashioned from straight-grain hickory, or ash, are as satisfactory as the bamboo. In any case, the end of the stick should be provided with a metal ice peg, and a ferrule to strengthen the wood at this point. A few inches above the peg a ring, or disk, is fastened, and this “snow washer” serves to keep the stick from sinking too deeply into the snow. Wicker rings, secured with thongs or straps, are much used, as are also disks of metal and hard rubber. A decided improvement over these materials has been brought out in a cup-shaped snow washer made of aluminum, which is flexible and fastened to the stick with clamps so that it can be easily shifted or removed at will. This feature is a good one, since the washer is often useful for assisting braking in soft snow, but is likely to catch and throw the runner if used upon crusted snow, hence the detachable arrangement is of value in that it supplies an easy way to take off the washer whenever desired. The sticks are shown in [Fig. 3].
Necessities of the Skier’s Outfit
For skiing an ordinary pair of heavy-soled lace shoes that fit well are suitable, but to keep the heel strap of a binding from slipping, the shoes should have broad, concave heels, or a small strap and buckle, firmly sewed in place at the extreme end of the heel, should be fitted to them. Personally, I prefer the heel strap to the special heel, but any cobbler can fit the shoes with either one. Specially designed skiing shoes, or boots, as shown in [Fig. 4], are to be had at the sporting-goods dealers’, and while good, are somewhat expensive, because most of them are imported. Of course, shoes for skiing must be amply large so that one or two pairs of woolen socks may be worn; two pairs of thin, woolen stockings being less bulky and very much warmer than one extremely heavy pair.
Fig. 4
Specially Designed Skiing Boots, Handmade for the Sport, with and without Heel Buckles
For clothing, the soft, smooth finish of the regulation mackinaw garments cannot be improved upon for outdoor winter wear, although any suitable material will serve as well. Smooth-finish material is the best in all cases, because cloth of rough texture will cause the snow to stick and make it uncomfortable. Regulation mackinaw trousers, split at the bottom and fastened with tapes to tie close to the ankle, are as good as any, over which cloth puttees, or leggings, may be worn to keep out the snow. For the coat, a mackinaw, made Norfolk-style, with belt and flap pockets secured with a button, has given me the most satisfaction. For ladies, close-fitting knickerbockers and leggings are generally preferred when a short skirt is worn.
How to Make Skis
To anyone who can use a saw and plane, the making of a pair of nicely balanced and durable skis is a very easy job. Ski making is far easier than snowshoe construction, since each runner is made from a single piece of plank, and no intricate filling is required. In choosing the wood, either hickory or ash will give satisfaction, because both are heavy woods, as well as strong and flexible, and may be worked down much thinner than birch, fir, or other materials. If it is desired to fashion the skis from the rough material, procure two ash, or hickory, planks, about 9 ft. long and 2 in. thick. Should the maker wish to hew his own material, select a sound and straight tree, about 10 in. in diameter, free from knots for at least 10 ft., and fell it during the winter. Place the log in the crotch of a stump and cut a groove along its length with the ax, taking pains that the groove is straight and about 1 in. in depth. Turn the log over and make a like groove in the opposite side. Rap the bottom of the grooves lightly with the ax, to start the split, and drive in small wood wedges, gradually working them along as the wood splits. At some points the wood will very likely split away from the groove, but by cutting these fibers, the split may be kept along the grooves. As the strongest and best grain of the wood will lie closest to the bark, only enough of the outside should be hewn away to make a flat surface, for this is to be the running surface of the ski. Skis may be made in any length and width, but for a man of good height, 7 to 8 ft. is the correct length. In [Fig. 5] is given a complete layout pattern for an 8-ft. ski, and from the dimensions it is an easy matter to fashion skis longer or shorter by making use of these well-balanced proportions. While the plan of the ski may be drawn directly on the plank, it is an excellent idea to make a paper pattern, and laying this down on the board, trace around it to get the correct outline.