Fig. 11
Fig. 12
The Gauge Board is Again Used for the Long Loops at the Finishing End, Then the Cords are Wound
The first mesh each time across is just a little different problem from all the others, which may be better understood by reference to [Fig. 8]. The knots Q, R, and S are of the next previous series. The cord is brought down over the mesh stick and up through mesh 1, and when the loop is brought down it may not draw to the mesh stick at its center; it is apt to do otherwise and a sideway pull is necessary, which is pulled so that the knots Q and R are side by side, then the knot at T may be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn down it should pull to place without shifting, and also all the others of that row.
Continue the use of the mesh stick until a net 8 ft. long is made. When the cord gives out rewind the shuttle and tie with a small knot that will not slip. The weaver’s knot is good if known, or the simple square knot shown in [Fig. 9] is very good. It is too easy to make to need direction, but unless it is thrown over just right it will slip. Let U, [Fig. 8], represent the short cord and V the new piece to be added. Place the cord V back of U and give U a complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and bring them together at a point above U, then to the front. Repeat the complete turn of U about V, shown by the dotted line, and pull tightly. If analyzed, it consists of two loops that are just alike and linked together as shown in [Fig. 10].
When the 8 ft. of netting has been completed, proceed to make the long loops as at the beginning. The same gauge board can be used, but the tying occurs at both ends, and since the pairs cannot be knotted in the center, two or three twists can be given by the second about the first of each pair. The long loops and the net are attached together as shown in [Fig. 11]. Slip one of the meshes of the last run over the nail N, and when the cord comes down from the ring, the shuttle passes through the same mesh, and when drawn up, the farthest point of the mesh comes against the nail. After this long loop has been secured at the ring, the first mesh is slipped off and the next put on. All of the long loops at this end will be about three inches shorter than at the other end, unless the finishing nail N is moved down. This will not be necessary.
With a piece of cord about six feet long, start quite close to the ring and wind all the cords of the long loops together. The winding should be made very tight, and it is best to loop under with each coil. This is shown in [Fig. 12].
The hammock is now ready for use. Some like a soft, small rope run through the outside edges lengthwise, others prefer a fringe, and either can be added. The fringe can be attached about six meshes down from the upper edge of the sides. The hammock should have a stretcher at each end of the netted portion, but not as long as those required for web hammocks.
Gourd Float for a Fishline
A unique as well as practical fishing-line float can be made of a small gourd. After the gourd has dried sufficiently, wire loops, to hold the line, are inserted, or rather, a single wire is run through and looped at both ends. The contents of the gourd need not be removed. Dip the float in a can of varnish, or apply the varnish with a brush.