In constructing the cabinet, the outer frame should first be made. The sides can be laid out and cut to the desired design. The top and bottom crosspieces should then be squared up, and the tenons cut as shown, the bottom tenons extending farther, to balance the design. The top is set in ³⁄₄ in. from the back edge. Holes should be marked and cut for the ³⁄₄-in. keys, after which the four parts may be assembled, and suitable keys driven in place. The back for the cabinet is made from ³⁄₄-in. material, squared up to fit between the sides, and be flush with their top edges while resting on the bottom crosspiece. It can be fastened in place with nails. The top and bottom pieces of the cabinet proper can then be made, and secured in place with round-head screws, after which the door may be made and fitted. The stiles and rails of the door should be rabbeted for a ³⁄₈-in. square groove, to hold the panel in place. The frame can be made sufficiently strong, if properly glued and held together with dowel pins passing through the stiles into the rails. If it is desired to fasten the frame with tenons, an extra amount must be added to the length of the rails given in the stock list. The panel should not be glued in place, as the shrinkage of the wood will cause it to crack.
In making the drawers, the front should be rabbeted for a groove to fit the drawer bottom, and sidepieces can be fitted and nailed in place. These should be rabbeted for grooves, into which the bottom and end pieces fit.
If the cabinet is finished in mission style, or fumed oak, hammered copper or brass hinges and drawer pulls will go well with the general appearance of the design.
Skis and Ski-running
Running, Jumping and Climbing
By Stillman Taylor
Part II
Before the beginner makes the attempt to ski, he should see that his complete outfit is perfectly suited to his purpose. The shoes should be nicely adjusted to fit snugly between the metal toe plates of the binding, and new holes should be punched in the straps wherever needed to adjust the harness snugly and comfortably to the feet. Many of the positions required in executing the various turns and swings may be practiced at home, that the novice may get some idea of the correct position of the feet and body assumed by expert skiers. For the initial practice outside, it is a good plan to select a frosty day when the snow is old and settled by the wind. This will introduce the novice to the sport under favorable conditions, while if the first trials are made shortly after a heavy snowfall, or upon a mild day when the snow is thawing, only discouragement will be experienced. Begin with one stick—or two if timid—and pick out an easy-sloping hill with a gradual run to the level ground. A few scattered trees and rocks will do no harm, for it is a good plan to learn how to avoid them from the beginning.
How to Turn on Skis
This and the correct manner of standing on skis are easily mastered if the beginner will but remember that the weight of the body should rest largely upon the advanced foot without bending the body at the ankle too much, or raising the heel from the ski. This is the correct position to assume when standing for a rest and for sliding, and this as well as turning should be practiced on the level. To make the kick turn, simply raise the point of the ski until the heel rests on the snow, as shown in [Fig. 1]. Swing the ski around by turning the point out and back until the two skis are point to heel, as shown in [Fig. 2]. When this, the most difficult position of the three, is assumed, raise the point of the other ski as high as convenient to avoid tripping, keep the heel down and swing the ski around over the heel of the other until both are facing in the same direction, as shown in [Fig. 3]. A little practice will make it possible for the novice to turn quickly, and if all turns are made with the advanced foot, when practicing on the level, no trouble will be experienced later on in attempting to turn on a steep slope. The stick is really indispensable for this practice, and while two may be used, the single stick will be found assistance enough for any active person.
When skiing on level ground the correct movement is rather more of a slide than the motion used in walking or skating. The body is thrown forward on one ski and the slide is made with both feet, most of the body weight being thrown on the advanced ski, while the rear foot is slid forward without stopping the forward travel, as shown in [Fig. 4]. The expert skier moves forward in long gliding steps without raising the ski, but bending the knees slightly to slide the ski ahead. The feet should be kept as close together as possible to make a narrow track and the stick used to lengthen the slide. At the beginning it is a good plan to endeavor to make a long slide with each advancement of the foot, rather than strive to take long steps. The speed of level running depends, of course, upon the condition of the snow. On hard, well-packed snow, sliding is easiest and greater speed obtained, while in deep and soft snow less speed is the rule. When skiing on the hard snow of a road, four miles an hour is the average speed, and for average level running, the skier will cover about the same distance as when walking along a good path.