The two side sections are made in a similar manner. Cut the studs—12 of them—6 ft. 4 in. long, and four plates, 10 ft. long. Cap the ends of the studs with the floor and rafter plates, according to the measurement on the floor plan. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, cut 10 ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. long, on the bottom of the section, and one similar board to the top edge. Bore four holes, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, 1 in. from the outside edge in the floor plate. These are for ¹⁄₂-in. lag screws, to hold the parts together when the sections are assembled.
The front-end section is arranged for a 30-in. door. The top, or rafter, plate is cut 7 ft. 4¹⁄₂ in. long. This makes the allowance for the width of the side studs and plates when they are to be assembled, a very important matter to remember. The floor plate is cut 4 ft. 5 in. long. Provide a dummy, made from a waste piece, to be fastened at the bottom of the door studs until the sections are assembled, when it is removed. Use screws to fasten this piece in place. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, 5 ft. long, at the bottom of the section, and an 8-ft. piece at the top. Be careful to set the end studs in from the end of the board the exact thickness of the corresponding studs on the side section.
Cottage Built by Boys to Fill the Requirements of a Tuberculosis Society for a Demonstration in Their Crusade against the White Plague
The back-end section is much more easily made. The top plate, as well as the floor plate, is cut the same as on the other section. Place the intermediate stud on the center and nail on ship-lap, as in the other construction.
Lap-Joint Corner Construction with Angle-Plate Reinforcement for the Screens or Storm Screens
In making the roof sections, cut four rafters for an 18-in. pitch, or any other pitch desired. These are to be placed at the ends. Note the notch on the lower end of the rafter marked A in the [illustration]. Make allowance for the thickness of the rider marked C. This piece can be made of 2 by 4-in. stock or any convenient material 1 in. thick. The rider must be nailed to the comb end of the rafters of one section, while a dummy, fastened to the under side of the rafters of the other section, will serve the purpose of holding them true until the roof is placed. Nail the sheathing on, closing the cracks between the boards as well as possible. Start at the comb end and bevel the first board for the comb joint. Make allowance for an 8-in. board at the lower end, so that a 4-in. overhang may be had. Cover these sections with the desired roofing. Place two screw holes at the lower end of each rafter to be used in holding the roof in place. Always use screws instead of nails, if the house is to be dismantled. Provide three rafter locks, marked B, and then the roof is ready for assembling.
The Floor Section Consists of Simple Frame Construction of Ordinary Material and Flooring Boards Fastened on the Frame to Make the Edges Flush with the Sides and Ends