Fix the ceiling into place in the same manner, being careful that the square holes fit together, and that the cleats are on the upper side. Turn the construction over and fix into place the small strips for the slides, as was done on the floor.
The fixed screens, [Fig. 6], and the doors, Fig. 7, are constructed similarly. They are built up of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, and vary in size to fit their respective places in the framework. Observe that the fixed screens are ¹⁄₄ in. higher than the doors, and that they are fastened between the ceiling and floor, bracing them. The wire grating is ¹⁄₂-in. square mesh, and is fixed between the pieces of the doors and the screens when they are built up.
The doors are shown secured by combination strap hinges, bent over the baseboard. Plain butts may be used and the lower portion of the hinge covered by the baseboard, a recess being cut to receive the part covered. In the latter instance the doors should be fixed into place immediately after the screens are set. Catches and chains may then be placed on the doors. Next nail the baseboards into place. They are 2¹⁄₂ in. wide and may be mitered at the corners, or fitted together in a square, or butt, joint. The latter joint may be nailed more readily.
The slides, shown in [Fig. 9], may now be made and fitted into their grooves. The handles are made of strips of band iron, drilled for screws and bent into the proper shape. It is important that the slides be constructed of three pieces, as shown, so that they will not warp or curve from exposure. The main piece is cut 7³⁄₄ in. long, and the strips, ¹⁄₂ in. square, are nailed on the ends.
The construction of the framing for the roof should next be taken up. This probably requires more careful work than any other part of the pigeon house, yet it is simple, as shown in Fig. 10. Note that the rafters are set upon a frame, or plate as it is called, built up of pieces 3 in. wide. It should be made ¹⁄₄ in. wider and longer on the inside than the ceiling board, so as to fit snugly over it. The joints at the corners are “halved” and nailed both ways. This gives a stronger structure than butting them squarely and nailing them. The end rafters should be fitted in before fixing the others. It is best to make a diagram of the end of the roof framing on a sheet of paper, or a board, and to fit the rafter joints in this way before cutting them. The rafters are then nailed into place.
The “rough boards” to cover the rafters may now be nailed down. They are spaced ¹⁄₂ in. apart so as to permit thorough drying, as is done in larger buildings. They project 2 in. beyond the ends of the plate frame, supporting the rafters. A ¹⁄₂-in. strip is nailed over the ends to give a neat finish. The roof may be shingled, or covered with tar paper, or any roofing material.
Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of the roof and nail the gable ends into place. One gable end is provided with a door, as shown, and the other has an opening fitted with a wire screen of the same size as the door.
The gable story rests on the lower story, and the notches in the top of the post should fit snugly to the ridge and center rafters, as shown in [Fig. 10]. This will aid in supporting the house firmly. If additional stories are added it would be well to place a post at each corner of the house. The upper story may be removed for cleaning, or for transporting the house.
