The construction may be begun with the chassis and the running gear. Fit the wheels with ⁵⁄₈-in. axles, as shown in the assembly views, [Figs. 1], [2], and [3], and detailed in [Fig. 4]. Fit the ends of the axles to the hubs of the wheels, providing the threaded ends with lock nuts. Make the wooden supports for the frame, as detailed in [Fig. 6]. The axles are fastened into half-round grooves, cut in the bottoms of the supports, and secured by iron straps, as shown in [Fig. 4], at A. Make the sidepieces for the main frame 2¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₄ in. thick, and 9 ft. 4 in. long, as detailed in [Fig. 7]. Mortise the supports through the sidepieces, and bore the holes for the bolt fastenings and braces. Glue the mortise-and-tenon joints before the bolts are finally secured. Provide the bolts with washers, and lock the nuts with additional jam nuts where needed. Keep the woodwork clean, and apply a coat of linseed oil, so that dirt and grease cannot penetrate readily.
Finish only the supporting structure of the chassis in the preliminary woodwork. Set the front-axle and steering-rigging supports C and D, and adjust the spacers F between them. Bore the hole for the kingbolt, as detailed in [Fig. 6], and fit the bevel gears and the fifth wheel G, of ¹⁄₄-in. steel, into place, as shown in [Fig. 5]. The gear H is bolted to the axle support. The pinion J is set on the end of a short ³⁄₄-in. shaft. The latter passes through the support D, and is fitted with washers and jam nuts, solidly, yet with sufficient play. A bracket, K, of ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄-in. strap iron, braces the shaft, as shown in [Fig. 3]. The end of this short shaft is joined to one section of the universal coupling, as shown, and, like the other half of the coupling, is pinned with a ³⁄₁₆-in. riveted pin. The pinion is also pinned, and the lower end of the kingbolt provided with a washer and nut, guarded by a cotter pin. Suitable gears can be procured from old machinery. A satisfactory set was obtained from an old differential of a well-known small car.
Fig. 8
Detail of the Motor Support: The Engine is Mounted on Reinforced Angle Irons, and Secured by Clamps and a Supporting Band under the Crank Case
Before fitting the steering column into place, make the dashboard, of ⁷⁄₈-in. oak, as shown in the assembly view, and in detail in [Fig. 7]. It is 19¹⁄₂ in. high and 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and set on the frame and braced to it with 4 by 4 by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Fit a ⁷⁄₈-in. strip of wood around the edge of the dashboard, on the front side, as a rest for the hood, as shown in [Figs. 1] and [7], at L. A brass edging protects the dashboard, and gives a neat appearance. Lay out carefully the angle for the steering column, which is of ⁷⁄₈-in. shafting, so as to be convenient for the driver. Mark the point at which it is to pass through the dashboard, and reinforce the hole with an oak block, or an angle flange, of iron or brass, such as is used on railings, or boat fittings. A collar at the flange counteracts the downward pressure on the steering post. The 12-in. steering wheel is set on the column by a riveted pin.
The fitting of the engine may next be undertaken. The exact position and method of setting the engine on the frame will depend on the size and type. It should be placed as near the center as possible, to give proper balance. The drawings show a common air-cooled motor of the one-cylinder type. It is supported, as shown in [Figs. 1] and [3] and detailed in [Fig. 8]. Two iron strips, B, riveted to 1¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, extend across the main frame, and support the engine by means of bolts and steel clamps, designed to suit the engine. Cross strips of iron steady the engine, and the clamps are bolted to the crank case. The center clamp is a band that passes under the crank case.
The engine is set so that the crankshaft extends across the main frame. Other methods may be devised for special motors, and the power transmission changed correspondingly. One end of the crankshaft is extended beyond the right side of the frame, as shown in [Fig. 3]. This extension is connected to the shaft by means of an ordinary setscrew collar coupling. A block M, [Figs. 3] and [7], is bolted to the frame, and a section of heavy brass pipe fitted as a bearing.
The ignition and oiling systems, carburetor, and other details of the engine control and allied mechanism, are the same as those used on the motorcycle engine originally, fitted up as required. The oil tank is made of a strong can, mounted on the dashboard, as shown in [Figs. 1] and [2]. It is connected with the crank case by copper tubing. A cut-out switch for the ignition system is mounted on the dashboard. The controls used for the engine of the motorcycle can be extended with light iron rods, and the control handles mounted on the dashboard or in other convenient position. The throttle can be mounted on the steering column by fitting an iron pipe around the post and mounting this pipe in the angle flange at the dashboard. A foot accelerator may also be used, suitable mountings and pedal connections being installed at the floor.
In setting the gasoline tank, make only as much of the body woodwork as is necessary to support it, as shown in [Figs. 1], [3], and [7]. The tank may be made of a can, properly fitted, and heavy enough, as determined by comparison with gasoline tanks in commercial cars. The feed is through a copper tube, as shown in [Fig. 1]. A small venthole, to guard against a vacuum in the tank, should be made in the cap. The muffler from a motorcycle is used, fitted with a longer pipe, and suspended from the side of the frame.
The transmission of the power from the motor shaft to the right rear wheel is accomplished by means of a leather motorcycle belt, made by fitting leather washers close together over a bicycle chain, oiling the washers with neat’s-foot oil. A grooved iron pulley is fitted on the end of the motor shaft, and a grooved pulley rim on the rear wheel, as shown in [Figs. 1] and [3], and detailed in [Fig. 4]. The motor is started by means of a crank, and the belt drawn up gradually, by the action of a clutch lever and its idler, detailed in [Fig. 9]. The clutch lever is forged, as shown, and fitted with a ratchet lever, N, and ratchet quadrant, O. The idler holds the belt to the tension desired, giving considerable flexibility of speed.