The use of the second barrel should not be overlooked in practicing with the idea of becoming an all-around wing shot, for the second shot is often needed to kill a cripple, or bring down a bird which has been missed with the first shot. Two-shot practice should begin by placing two paper targets about 20 ft. apart, then shooting at the first one and continuing to swing the gun to cover the second target. Practice swinging from various angles as directed for the initial practice, increasing the speed of the swing as proficiency is gained, and fail not to profit by the mistakes which must inevitably occur to all who try to master the shotgun. After a reasonable amount of practice, conducted along these lines, the gunner may venture afield, and if his acquaintance includes an old seasoned sportsman who will point out the mistakes made, much may be learned regarding the knack of handling the gun, as well as relating to the haunts and habits of our wild game birds.
Cleaning and Care of the Gun
A good shotgun is a thoroughly reliable and dependable weapon, but as with all tools of the sportsman’s craft, the best results can only be had when the arm is in good condition. It is gun wisdom always to clean the weapon after a day’s shooting, and the amateur should make it a positive rule never to put his gun away until it is cleaned. The sooner firearms are cleaned after the firing the better, and if cleaned before the burnt powder has had time to corrode the steel, much future trouble is saved. In cleaning the barrels, never rest the muzzle against the floor. If a rest is needed, use an old piece of carpet or a bundle of rags. Clean from the breech end only, as any slight dust, or burr, at the muzzle will greatly impair the shooting qualities of any firearm. Never use a wire-wheel scratchbrush, as it will scratch the polished steel; a soft brass-wire cleaner is the only suitable implement for this work. There are several good cleaners to be had. For removing any rust deposits, a brass brush may be used, while for ordinary cleaning, plenty of cloth should be run through the barrels, taking care that it touches every part of the interior. This is easily done by rotating the cleaning rod as it is pushed through the barrel from the breech to the muzzle. When putting the gun away, the barrels should be stopped, at the breech and muzzle, with tightly fitting corks, or gun ropes may be run through the barrels after soaking them in some good oil. To prevent rusting, cover the metal, outside as well as inside the barrels, by smearing on a little heavy lubricating oil. Slip covers of chamois are often used to protect the stock and barrels before putting them in the leather case, but stout woolen covers are better, since chamois is likely to absorb more or less moisture.
The mechanism of a gun is not exactly complicated, but the novice had better leave well enough alone and not attempt to dismount the locks or tinker with the mechanism. The modern steel barrel is very hard and not easily dented, but if so injured, it is better to ship it to the factory for repairs than to trust it to the crude methods of the average gun repairman.
A gun should be given ordinary good care, and this is not forthcoming if one makes a practice of opening it and letting the barrels drop down with a bang. Snapping the triggers on an empty barrel is likewise foolish. If one desires to practice trigger pressing, put a couple of empty shells in the barrels.
If one owns a good-grade shotgun, the stock is probably finished in oil and hand-rubbed to a nice, durable polish. On cheap arms the varnish is usually employed to give an attractive finish in the store. Of course, this varnish will scratch, and otherwise come off, and spoil the appearance of the arm. If a good finish is wanted, do not re-varnish the stock, but remove all the old varnish by using a little varnish remover, and rub down with oil. For an extra-fine polish, wet the wood to raise the grain; rub down with very fine sandpaper; wet the wood again, and sandpaper a second or a third time; then rub down with oil until the wood is saturated with it, and polish with a cloth, using plenty of pressure, and the stock will be as fine in appearance as if it had the “London oil finish” supplied with all high-grade guns.
Brass Machine Screws with Nuts
When small brass machine screws and threaded nuts to fit them are needed in small devices, or for experimental work, and the necessary taps and dies are not at hand, secure some old brass globe holders and cut out the threaded hole for the nut. The fastening-screw arrangement on these will answer every purpose very well. Enough metal can be left on each one to fasten it on wood, as shown at A, or they can be cut, as shown at B, if they are to be soldered to metal.