The craft described, which is the regulation open or Canadian model, is comparatively light and draws very little water. It is not a flimsy makeshift, but a stiff and thoroughly dependable canoe designed for long service, which, barring accidents and given reasonably good care, will continue to give satisfaction for many years. The tools needed are the common ones found in most homes, consisting of a rip and cross-cut saw, chisel, screwdriver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits, rule, hammer, vise, plane, and three or four cheap wood, or metal, screw clamps. The list of material given is for a canoe having a length of about 16 ft., 31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the ends, 12¹⁄₂-in. depth amidships, and weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according to the material.
While oak or ash makes the best stems, other woods may be used, rock elm and fir being very satisfactory substitutes. Where cedar is specified, spruce pine, cypress, or fir may likewise be employed. The materials for molds and ribbands, which are required to give form to the craft, may be cut from any cheap stuff, and this will reduce the cost somewhat.
| STEM, 1 piece oak or ash, 6 ft. long and ³⁄₄ in. square. | ||
| KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash 14 ft. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, ³⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, ¹⁄₂ in. square. | ||
| FENDERWALES, 34 ft. ¹⁄₂-in. half-round molding. Oak or ash best for hard knocks. | ||
| OUTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1 in. by ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| DECK BEAMS, 2 pieces oak or ash, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., ¹⁄₈ in. thick. Best secured by purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber,and having same dressed on two sides to ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and in lengths of 12, 14 and 16 ft. This willgive the minimum amount of waste. | ||
| BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| MOLDS, 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| RIBS, 360 running feet, cedar, 1³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 9 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| 1 | lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel. | |
| 1 | lb. ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs. | |
| ¹⁄₂ | lb. ³⁄₄-in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings. | |
| 18 | 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams. | |
| 24 | 1-in. No. 6 brass screws, for fastening seats. | |
| 4 | lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking. | |
| 3 | oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with. | |
| 11 | ³⁄₄ | yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull. |
| 1 | lb. ³⁄₈-in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs. | |
The Backbone and Molds
The first step in the construction of a canoe is to get out the backbone and the molds, or forms, which give the correct dimensions and shape of the craft. The backbone may be made from any inexpensive soft wood, such as cedar, spruce, pine, or cypress; and for making it a piece of lumber, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, is used. By referring to [Fig. 1] it will be seen that the upper edge measures exactly 15 ft. 8³⁄₄ in., and that the lower edge is ¹⁄₂ in. longer, giving a total length of 15 ft. 9¹⁄₄ in. The spaces numbered from each end of the backbone toward the center, as 1, 2, 3, and 4, indicate where the corresponding molds are to be placed. Seven molds are used and as a canoe is tapered alike at both ends the molds are numbered alike and are made exactly to the same dimensions.
Fig. 1
The First Step in the Construction of a Canoe Is to Get Out the Backbone and the Molds, or Forms, Which Give the Correct Dimensions and Shapes of the Craft
A good way to lay out the backbone accurately is first to mark the total length, making the lower edge 1 in. longer than represented in [Fig. 1], then measure along the top edge exactly 22¹⁄₄ in., and run a pencil line across. From this line measure off ³⁄₄ in. and draw a second line across the width of the board parallel with the first. This space represents the thickness of the mold, and it is marked 1. Measure off 23¹⁄₄ in. and make two parallel lines as before and number it 2, measure another 23¹⁄₄-in. length and number it 3. Begin measuring from the opposite end of the board as in the first instance, 22¹⁄₄ in. and give it number 1, then mark off 2 and 3 the same as for the end already marked. The board is then cut off at the bevel mark at each end.
The Molds or Forms
The molds which give the form to the hull are shown and numbered in the order that they are fastened to the backbone. To get out No. 1 mold draw a rectangle on a sheet of stiff paper exactly 13⁵⁄₈ in. long and 11 in. wide as shown in [Fig. 2]. Run cross lines to divide it in quarters and mark out the center mortise for the backbone, which is 5 in. deep and ⁷⁄₈ in. wide. Measure 4 in. toward each side from the outside edge of the backbone mortise and mark the mortises for receiving the gunwales, which are 1⁵⁄₈ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide or deep. To obtain the correct bilge curve lay the rule on the bottom line and measure off exactly 1 in. to the left of the center dividing line and make dot 0. Measure 2³⁄₄ in. farther to the left, to A; turn the rule at right angles and measure 2¹⁄₈ in. inside the line and make dot 1. Measure 1¹⁄₂ in. to the left of A, turn rule at right angles and measure up the sheet exactly 4⁷⁄₈ in. and make dot 2, which will be ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical line. On the center horizontal line, which is 1¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. above dot 2, mark dot 3, ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the left vertical line. Measure off 2 in. above the horizontal center line and make dot 4 on the vertical line. The space between these two dots is the widest part of the bilge curve. Lay the rule on the bottom line of the gunwale mortise and measure off ³⁄₁₆ in. from the outside line and make dot 5. Pencil the angle from dot to dot and draw in the full curve. Cut out the half section, fold on the vertical center line, and draw the right side.