Water-proofing and Damp-proofing of Foundation Walls.—"There shall be built in with the foundation walls, at a level of six (6) inches below the finished floor level, a course of damp-proofing consisting of not less than two (2) ply of tarred felt (not less than fifteen (15) pounds weight per one hundred (100) square feet), and one (1) ply of burlap, laid in alternate layers, having the burlap placed between the felt, and all laid in hot, heavy coal-tar pitch, or liquid asphalt, and projecting six (6) inches inside and six (6) inches outside of the walls.
"There shall be constructed on the outside surface of the walls a water-proofing lapping on to the damp-proof course in the foundation walls and extending up to the soil level. This water-proofing shall consist of not less than two (2) ply of tarred felt (of weight specified above), laid in hot, heavy coal-tar pitch, or liquid asphalt, finished with a flow of hot pitch of the same character. This water-proofing to be well stuck to the damp course in the foundation walls. The layers of felt must break joints."
Water-proofing and Damp-proofing of Cellar Floors.—"There shall be laid, above a suitable bed of rough concrete, a course of water-proofing consisting of not less than three (3) ply of tarred felt (not less than fifteen (15) pounds weight per one hundred (100) square feet), laid in hot, heavy coal-tar pitch, or liquid asphalt, finished with a flow of hot pitch of the same character. The felt is to be laid so that each layer laps two-thirds of its width over the layer immediately below, the contact surface being thoroughly coated with the hot pitch over its entire area before placing the upper layer. The water-proofing course must be properly lapped on and secured to the damp course in the foundation walls."
Other methods of damp-proofing foundations and cellars consist in the use of slate or sheet lead instead of tar and tarred paper. An additional means of preventing water and dampness from coming into houses has been proposed in the so-called "dry areas," which are open spaces four to eight feet wide between the house proper and the surrounding ground, the open spaces running as deep as the foundation, if possible. The dry areas are certainly a good preventive against dampness coming from the sides of the house.
Fig. 4.
CONCRETE FOUNDATION AND DAMP-PROOF COURSE.
Subsoil Drainage.—By subsoil drainage is meant the reducing of the level of the ground water by draining all subsoil water into certain water courses, either artificial or natural. Subsoil drainage is not a modern discovery, as it was used in many ancient lands, and was extensively employed in ancient Rome, the valleys and suburbs of which would have been uninhabitable but for the draining of the marshes by the so-called "cloacæ" or drains, which lowered the ground-water level of the low parts of the city and made them fit to build upon. The drains for the conduction of subsoil water are placed at a certain depth, with a fall toward the exit. The materials for the drain are either stone and gravel trenches, or, better, porous earthenware pipes or ordinary drain tile. The drains must not be impermeable or closed, and sewers are not to be used for drainage purposes. Sometimes open, V-shaped pipes are laid under the regular sewers, if these are at the proper depth.
By subsoil drainage it is possible to lower the level of ground water wherever it is near or at the surface, as in swamps, marsh, and other lands, and prepare lands previously uninhabitable for healthy sites.